I replaced my starter maybe three weeks ago now. I have noticed that since replacing it, every once in a great while when I get in and turn the key, nothing happens. What I mean is lights and stuff inside the car work, but there is no engaging of the starter, no spinning, cranking, or anything like that. Just dead silence... All I have to do is turn it all the way back and try again and the car will start right up. This usually happens after the car was running, I go somewhere and briefly shut the car off and shortly after get back in. When it's starting from a cold start, I have yet to encounter this issue.
When this happens, all electrical seems to still be working just fine.
Before I replaced the starter, this never happened.
When I installed the starter, I did make sure to tighten the electrical connections.
If it wasn't present before the starter replace, then it is probably safe to assume you got a bum starter...certainly wouldn't be the first time that happened. Double check all your connections first though.
Rebuilt one by Napa... If it is the starter, would it be expected that 85% or more of the time it starts right up and every now and then it doesn't? I suppose I could yank it out and bring it in for testing. My gut tells me though that as it works 85% or more of the time for me, when they test it, it will look alright to them as well.
Is there something that would have "broken" the iginition switch when I replaced the starter? Changing it, I dropped the two bolts holding it up there, disconnected the three electrical terminals, and did the reverse to install it. Was rather simple, even for me! LOL - Minus the two extra shims I needed to pick up.
Perhaps it is the ignition and this is coincidence?
Try to get it to do it again and have someone under the hood wiggle the battery cables somewhat hard and see if it then cranks. Just hold the key over while someone does this. If so, it's an electrical connection...
I just had the same dam thing happen to me this last weekend. I have a RobbMc mini starter. My theory is its not shimed correctly and the solinoid is stuck halfway between being engaged and fully retracted.
I have seen this under my car while working on it. The gear being hung up on the flywheel.
Check under the car next time this happens. If you see the starter gear on the flywheel. Give if a hit and try the ignition again.
when my ignition switch was going bad ,this would happen ,first once in awhile ,then more often....my buddy installed a wire ,hidden in plain sight, from the starter up towards the battery , then I`d just turn the key , use the wire there and touch the battery = hot wire it...eventually we replaced the switch...
you need a lift to install that wire...at least I do/did, as mine is low enough I cant get my head low enough to look under the car.
put a test light on the crank wire next time it happens. If the light lights when you turn the key and the engine does not crank I would replace the starter/solonoid. It sounds like a faulty solonoid, or as above the gear not retracting. This is not an unusual problem. If the car has headers even more common. I have had a few where the headers were too close to the starter. would start when cold but not when warm. I have a mini on mine.
Well I just had the no cranking thing happen to me again. I crawled under it with the meter. No voltage on the purple S terminal wire while the wife turned the key. I could short the S terminal to the battery cable and crank it over.
I have a RobbMc starter and he said its normal for the starter gear to stay engaged to the flywheel and that it would not keep it from starting. So my theory was crap.
I called my mechanic, who is on vacation next week. He said he will sort it out when he gets back on the 23rd.
His guess is that I have a lose connection. I can't imagine I was that careless.
Appreciate all the help though. With the possibilities of bad starter, ignition, or battery I figured it's best to let him sort it. I don't want to end up stranded somewhere.
Gene I have my original sitting in my basement. You are welcome to test with it. I am over in Bolingbrook off 111th. I ran it without any problem for about a month or so when I first brought the car home.
Well I just had the no cranking thing happen to me again. I crawled under it with the meter. No voltage on the purple S terminal wire while the wife turned the key. I could short the S terminal to the battery cable and crank it over.
I have a RobbMc starter and he said its normal for the starter gear to stay engaged to the flywheel and that it would not keep it from starting. So my theory was crap.
Thus it must be the ignition switch for me.
looks/sounds like it...that sounded way too familiar...
until you get a new installed , stick that wire on there semi permanently....then at least you can drive it!
Gentlmen, I may be way off on my trouble shooting solution but I will advise what occurred ref my restored 1968 fb conv while in Ocean city for cruise In. My 68 on a few occasions would not start, as well I had no power to anything ie lights radio etc. As well I would be driving and the engine would die and the electrical would go dead. Bottom line my horn relay, which is a major ground for the vehicle was loose. Problem Solved !! fires up everytime now. Sorry if I'm way off base. Chris
Gentlmen, I may be way off on my trouble shooting solution but I will advise what occurred ref my restored 1968 fb conv while in Ocean city for cruise In. My 68 on a few occasions would not start, as well I had no power to anything ie lights radio etc. As well I would be driving and the engine would die and the electrical would go dead. Bottom line my horn relay, which is a major ground for the vehicle was loose. Problem Solved !! fires up everytime now. Sorry if I'm way off base. Chris
Not at all, good point. That's why we are here, to toss around ideas that will hopefully become solutions!
I checked the horn relay and thought I was on to something for a minute. Then no start again. Kinda stange that the underdash lights come on but not the radio. I will have to trace that out. Must have to do with the accessory feed from the ignition switch.
I got my ignition switch today and got it installed.
I was having some other issues besides no cranking at the starter that somehow were related to the ignition switch, I noticed this while installing my cancle cam. My blinkers would kill the power. If I used the turn signal the power would drop out. I could grab the wires in the back, wiggle them around and get power back, flip the turn signal and bam! No power again. Very strange.
Well it appears to all work now with the new ignition switch.
First I want to thank everyone who chimed in to help me.
I dropped her off at the mechanic earlier today. I got a call from him and basically he said the starter is the issue. He looked at the one I put on the car and believes that might be the issue. I went with a standard starter from Napa. He asked me to drop off the receipt so he can see what he could do. While there he had me feel the headers on the car, cool to the touch. Then he had me feel the starter itself. Still between warm and hot. He was commenting how the headers are putting off so much heat that I should probably use a heavier duty starter. I told him to do whatever he felt was necessary. So we shall see what starter he goes with.
Kind of glad that it wasn't my installation which caused the issue. Kind of sad that I could have taken it down and upgraded myself. But with all the possibilities, I felt it was better left to the expert.
Glad you've got it sorted out. They make a header wrap/tape that insulates the heat from the starter, you may want him to try some of that while he's in there. They do make a heavy duty stock version of our starters, I've had one on for over 10 years with headers(coated)and no problems at all.
I assume you also have the heat shield in place. I experienced this issue many times. Eventually went with high torgue starter, 00 cables and a heat sheild. It was the sheild that finally made this problem go away.
I assume you also have the heat shield in place. I experienced this issue many times. Eventually went with high torgue starter, 00 cables and a heat sheild. It was the sheild that finally made this problem go away.
Nope, no heat shield. The key to coated headers is having it done both inside and out. Using an infrared thermometer you can check the exhaust runners right before they dump into the headers. Runners are about 400 degrees and the headers are around 250 degrees, big difference.
Yeah - I'm guessing the one I took off the car was the heavier duty one as well. I had no clue that the headers would cause issues like this. Hey - I learn something every day!
Not sure on this heat shield. I don't recall seeing anything like that when I was under there. I'll have to take a look.
The heat shield should be covering the exhaust side of the solenoid. I ended up using one from a mid 70s Pontiac..with modification. The original style shield is small. As I recall, the shield I used had fiberglass insullation and covered the solenoid and part of the starter motor. The shield was originally installed on Ram Air and Ho engines.
This all seems too familiar. If you continue to have problems, please see this thread. I detail the installation of a remote solenoid to solve Hot Start issues. Very easy, and inexpensive fix.
