Re: 1968 Firebird (400)
Can someone let me know where I can find or can someone let me know the torque spec's on the bolts that attach the:
water pump to the timing cover,
the timing cover to the block,
the fuel pump to the t-cover,
the harmonic balancer to the block,
the pulley to the harmonic balancer,
the pulley to the water pump,
the fan to the pulley.

Also, when I am installing the gaskets, is there a special type of silicon that I should apply to the gaskets or just leave them as is.

Thanks,
Jay

Vikki's site library has all the factory manuals which is a good place to start.

From the index you will want to refer to page 6-76:

'68 FB Service Manual V8 Engine

If your specific need is not listed (most were not) then go to the Service Manual section that covers removal and replacement of the item you are looking at - most often the torque requirement is in the text.

Like Item # 7 on remove/replace for the harmonic balancer, in the text it says tighten to 160 ft-lbs.

Gaskets: we all have our different methods from trial & error. I have found to go with a LIGHT coating on stuff with either general blue or black silicone gasket sealer on ONE SIDE so that the gasket stays where I want it. Sealer on both sides is asking to have something squish out. And that's REALLY LIGHT, like a film - just enough for it to stick. Then wait 15 or 20 minutes for it to set up so the gasket does not move.

And that is for gaskets only on things EXTERNAL to the block/heads only (in cause you are reassembling the block) to prevent coolant and oil leaks.

Most of the longer water pump bolts go into engine water jacket, so they need to be coated on the end with silicone or they will leak. My building did not do that and I paid for it by dumping a lot of coolant on the garage floor. I think it was 4 bolts total I had to treat.

Thanks.

Can I get Vikki's sit info so that I could look up other manuals. All of the torque spec's are not in this manual, so I wanted to check other manuals.

Also, when they say "cement front oil pan gasket to the oil pan", what is the cement product?

here's the site:

http://thefirstgensite.com/

as far as adhesives, permatex makes one called "the right stuff" which will be good for everything you are working on right now.

Up to a couple of months ago, I would have still "cemented" with silicone. But I blew out my rear oil pan gasket after having about 1 hour in the engine and replaced it with the new BOP 1-piece design. They had some cool pointers:

They told me to glue the gaskets to the block with weatherstrip adhesive, loosely assemble the pan on and then wait 24 hours for the glue to dry. Then remove the pan, put a dab of slicone in the 2 corners were the rear thrust bearing cap meets the block, and then attach the pan and tighten up the bolts (19 ft-lbs I believe).

Jay,

I rebuilt my 350 about 30 years ago. I'm taking it apart this month after 25k miles. I had oil leaks as the pan was wet and also the transmission. After looking it over I found the leaks. The rear and front crankshaft seals were leaking. The pan gasket and the timing chain housing held.

Also, no antifreeze leaks what so ever.

This is what did:

Water & oil part connections: gaskets + blue Form-a-gasket on both sides of the gasket. When I assembled it I just snugged up the bolts and wait for the silicon to almost setup, then I tighten them with proper torque.

Heads: Spread a thin layer of GM Lubriplate 105 Lubricant (white GM grease) on both sides of the head gasket. My dad taught me this trick and so far no blown head gaskets. The grease eliminates any binding of the head gasket when you torque the heads.

Also, torque and the order you torque the bolts are very important. Get a general book on engine maint or rebuilding for Pontiacs as a guide.