I'm using the Fel-pro gasket kit to reinstall, have a couple questions as there's nothing in the pack as far as instructions.
When I removed it, there were four small metal sleeves, two in the uppermost holes and two in the bottom ones. The kit only provides two plastic ones. Should the go in the uppers or the lowers, and should they go into the block or into the back of the cover? They're shaped like little top-hats, with a brim.
Also, not a question but an observation- the two holes that are waist level in the cover slip over two studs mounted in the block, so you hang the cover, then fasten it, as opposed to using all bolts and trying to support it until it's fastened. Is this standard, or something the previous owner changed?
Other than that, pretty clear. The crank snout seal has been changed, sleeve is on the balancer (yes, there was a small groove, I think it was Dr. Drivability recommended getting this kit for that reason). Need to get it back together and see if it starts pumping gas.
The metal sleeves help align the cover for the sake of front crank seal centering(not centered, will leak)you can/should have left them in. If you still have them, put them back. Not sure what the plastic ones are for, maybe another application the set can be used for.
And yes, those studs the cover goes over are factory.
Still have the sleeves, I've been washing stuff and setting it aside. I try never to throw anything away until the project is done- even then, I keep the unused parts just in case! I have a couple four-drawer legal cabinets in the barn for that kind of thing.
Was the same way for years till ran out of room and/or couldnt find it. Go thru stuff every so often and toss some out. Figure if didnt need it in 20 to 35 yrs...
those two stud bolts you mentioned , are those the top two bolt holes ? mine was taken apart and the studs are in a box with the other bolts. I think it is 6 total, 2 top, 2 middle, 2 bottom. can you confirm the stud bolts go at the top ?
Last edited by 69birdinamillionpieces; 08/27/1001:25 PM.
Wow, good test question(niether of mine a factory stock). Think only the 2 top locations use studs. Maybe the 2nd ones down under the pump. Very lowers are bolts for sure.
Here are pictures of my 67 with the 8-bolt water pump, but I think the timing cover bolts are the same for 67-69.
From top to bottom: 1 skinny bolt with "bat wing" washer at the very top - goes to the intake manifold 2 studs - the one on the pass side has a thick ring and the engine hook 2 bolts just under the water pump 2 bolts at the bottom 4 bolts through the oil pan (not visible)
There's six bolts, three on each side, kinda at shoulders, waist and feet. On mine, the two waist spots had the studs, with shoulders and feet using bolts.
Like I said, makes sense to me to help hang it and hold it while you install the rest of the hardware.
thanks. so i've set up the distributor so that the rotor is spot-on pointing toward cyl#1. since the rotor turns counterclockwise, would it make sense to advance the spark a little before 0 deg ? That would mean turning the distributor a little clockwise. that way it isn't exactly at 0 deg when I first fire it. it would be advanced a bit. What is a good deg setting to start with for a lightly mod engine, 5 BTDC, 10 BTDC?
It will be easier to start if the timing is advanced up a little bit. If it is retarted too much it will be difficult to start. I seriously doubt you will be able to "eyeball" 5 or 10 degrees of advancement. Just get it running, then adjust as necessary. Not a big deal if it is off for a few minutes of run time.
