Ok, I know this is a firebird forum, but I thought Id post a quick non starting question here since I cant find a decent lawnmower forum. Plus, almost all starting problems seem fairly universal.

Its a 1995 Toro wheelhorse with a 12.5 Briggs single engine. Over the past few weeks its been taking longer to start, and eventually I had to jump start it to get it to start. Once running, it runs fine. But the following week, again, it would have to be jumped to get it started. *btw: I used the Firebird to jump it each time...so theres my common firebird thread..

Anyway, last night I finished mowing and started to lawn sweep. Knowing it didnt want to start without a jump, I left it running, added more gas, hitched up the sweeper and started to sweep.

Within a pass or two on the lawn, it start to smell like rubber burning. It also sounded as if the PTO (mower) was trying to engage, even though it wasnt engaged.

I shut it off, and looked it over and found nothing burning. When I went to restart it, via a jump with the firebird, nothing... just a few clicks, like the solenoid is clicking. The engine would not turn over. I tried the Mrs. car jumping, nothing. I put the battery charger on it, and it showed weak (only 6). I left it charging for a few hrs, came back, it hadnt improved.

Is this battery dead to the point that its preventing me from even jumping it to start?

Is it possible to remove the battery, and try to jump the mower without the battery?

Or does it sound like solenoid?

The engine had plenty of oil, so it wouldnt have seized up and acted like that, would it?

Tonight I planned on getting a new battery, cleaning the cables, grounds, (I was putting off getting a new battery as we're shopping for a new mower anyway an didnt want to spend more money on this old mower Ill be selling or giving away).

If the new battery doesnt make a difference.. I guess the next step is solenoid? Starter? I checked the fuses and they were all fine.

Thoughts?

If it's a car battery, six volts is way beyond dead. Each cell (6) of them generate 2.1 volts for a total of 12.6 volts for a fully charged battery. and believe it or not at a reading of 12 volts the battery is 1/2 discharged. So start with a battery, you know you need one anyway and report back.

Yep.. thats what was #1 on my list. I was trying to avoid it as Ill likely end up giving this thing away after getting the new/bigger mower, but, if I get it running, I guess I could sell it instead.

But yeah, the battery is getting replaced tonight. Ill report back after I do that first.

ever changed the spark plug?

Yeah, Ive changed the spark plug on it. I change them out every spring and usually check them mid season.

Even with no spark plug installed, I would think I would be able to stil get it to turn over. This thing doesnt turn over, which points me towards not enough power (dead battery), bad cables/connections between battery, solenoid, starter, or a bad solenoid or starter.

Ill replace the battery tonight and see what it does. If nothing, then its onto bypassing the solenoid and direct jump to the starter to see if I can at least get it to turnover. My biggest fear is that the engine seized...

Put a front and rear spoiler on it, that'll make it go, and sell better.

(at least that what those 'maro owner's say)

My parents Simplicity 52" did the same thing. I would first take battery to parts store for a load test. If that checks out, start cleaning all electrical connections. Amazing what gets inbetween connectors. I pressure wash their rider a few times a year and use dielectric grease on electrical connections.

With 20 plus years dealing with riding lawnmowers, I would say it's the battery...and would clean all connections in the starting system.

The PTO isssue sounds like a bearing going bad in one of the deck pulleys. When one seizes up, the belt will still keep spinning yet the pulley/guide will be seized or dragging. Make sure your PTO lever fully engages and disengages the drive.

The "longer to start" could be low voltage to get her going or using alot of cranking time and drain because tractor wont start?

Also..with the taking longer to start, I would buy a few pints of Seafoam. Put about 6 ounces in oil and run for about 4 hours, drain and refill. As well, use 2 oz per gallon in fuel and clean out carb with the spray version. You may have gummed up needle and seat or linkage. With engine running (and hot), pour Seafoam in carb until it sputters and dies...if it doesnt die, shut it down ASAP. Allow to work in for 30 minutes or more, then restart.

I swear by Seafoam. That mower will run awesome and will start immediately.

I'll 2nd that! Great stuff!

Put in a 400 ... need more power!

Try swapping a Holley on it.

It turned out to be the solenoid.

I first got the multimeter and tested the battery..good.
Tested the negative cable to frame ground...good.
Tested positve battery cable from solenoid to starter..good.
Tested positive battery cable from battery to solenoid..good.
Tested the positive battery cable to starter with switch on..bad
Tested solenoid post to post with power on...bad. Interesting is that it made the clicking sound that it was engaging the magnet, but, no conductivity was registered.
At one point I bypassed the solenoid and hot wired directly to the starter and got the engine to turn over. So I had no doubt it was the solenoid.

After going to the local tractor place and not finding a replacement, I was going to wait and order one the next day. But, after rummaging around in my old car parts, I came across a 12-volt, 4 post solenoid. I then rewired the attaching clips to match the solenoid, tested, and it worked. I finished making it all solid and tight, tightened it down to the frame, retested and it worked.

So, the mower is back up and running..!

Thanks for the help.