I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
I don't know anything about Dynacorn, but I had relatively good luck with Goodmark quarters. I'd say they were 95% accurate.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
My OER panels from Classic Industries are Dynacorn. Very nice fitment. Most of the parts I got from CI are Dynacorn. CI just put their tag over Dynacorns tag!
So I got my Dynacorn Quarters. The driver side fits like crap. About a 1/4 bigger gap than there should be between quarter and trunk lid. If it weren't for bad luck I wouldn't have any at all. The passenger side measures a little bigger that the driver side so maybe it will fit better. Anyone else have or see this issue. Would it help to call the distributor.
I've heard of issues on all repops, a body man advised me to save my originals if i can being that all repops are not the greatest. The lines are not as crisp, long or short fenders/quarters. One other guy that I bought some parts from was restoring a Mustang had to cut a half inch from the back end of a quarter to fit properly. While in Denver I stopped by this shop while they were restoring a 69 Firebird and guy had brought new fenders and a quarter so they can finish up his car and they told him he wasted his money because they would rather work with original sheetmetal. Good luck on your quarters.
I disagree. The Goodmark rear quarters I put on my '67 fit 95% well. The only issues we found were an inconsistient gap along the passenger door (we ground the door a little) and the vent cutout on the driver's door jamb was cut at an angle.
Other than the rounted tail corners (not as crisp as the originals) we were pleasantly surprised and happy with how they turned out. We had more body work with the NOS GM fenders I bought than the Goodmark (full) quarters. You can scroll through the picts on my photobucket of all the sheet metal work. I have picts of the alignment issues.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
Some things you just need to make work. Go to Home Depot and get youself a piece of flat stock. You can heat it up and bend to the contour of the quarter. Take your time tacking it in as to not distort the panel. You may end up having to build up a little bit on the tail edge also. A little extra work, but not that big of a deal.
Youll never find a repop that fits exactly like the original. I used goodmark and the drivers fit like a dream but the passenger side is off at the filler panel and the tail panel.
hope you don't mind me resurrecting this thread, what is better - repro panels or metal fabrication? is it harder to fix misalignment of gaps in case of repros that don't fit well as compared to just fabricating panels fully?
depends on how good your body work skill are. either way there is work just one has more bondo ie sectioning a patch. i like rust free metal with less bondo. the fit and finish is work; but if done, right the results are great. i went full panel repops. the only issue i had, was the window felt trim holes were not in place after i welded them in i had to cut them out. what a bi--ch.. and some shrinking of the gill area for the correct look. but i say doing repops was worth it.