Bill Hirsch has it...its what I used on my 400...supposedly the best lasting....make sure you clean the exh ports well from old paint first and give it thin coat there = lasts longer.
web page check this out! first hit paint over to the left, then engine enamel, then pick type = brush-on or spray, then go to "color", scroll to : Pontiac met blue 66-72....
I spent the $ for Hirch paint and it's burning off within a couple of days. Maybe I didn't get it clean enough or put it on in more than one thin coat but it doesn't seem to be lasting any longer than any other paint would. Good color tho.
When I do my motor, I was considering using high temp gray manifold paint on the hot parts of the head and then painting over with engine paint. That way when the engine paint burns off, it won't get rusty. I noticed somebody's car at a show looked like they did that. The blue was burned off but it was pristine looking cast iron underneath.
Hirsch paint is rated the highest temp of all the paints out there. The key, as stated on their site also, is to clean and prep well, and then, on the exhaust ports for the heads and the heat cross over on the manifold, you only spray a dusting of paint, just barely enough to cover, and that's it!
I've had mine on for 3.5 years now and while it is getting that green/silver heat tint, it's still wearing well. It's to the point where I'd like to redo it, but it's all still there.
Also, with a new motor, you will have higher temps to deal with, and if the motor runs lean at all, you can burn these areas faster...
And yes, the basic look should have a satin finish to it, not a true Flat Black for under the hood.
Anybody know where I can pick up a few cans of the "Satin" Black for the engine compartment locally? Can I pick some up at a GM parts counter?
Has anybody ever tried Rustoleum's products such as the Rust Performer that turns rust into a primer or a paintable surface without having to sand to bare metal? Or the Rusty Metal Primer or Clean Metal Primer?
I'm going to be doing some prep work in the engine compartment before I drop in the newly rebuilt 455 with all it's shiny parts. I just don't want to drop in such a nice engine in a crummy looking engine compartment. I'll plan to later down the line bead blast the entire car and compartment and start from scratch but at this point, I would like to get the engine in soon so I can park it in the garage for the full winter season.
Probably you can pick it up from GM store, but any store should carry Satin Black,like Home Depot,Loews, Pepboys, O`Reilly, Autozone and I think Rustoleum is a good brand... I have not tried Rustoleums product when it comes to "turning rust into primer" , but used one or two others 4 and 6 yrs ago, cant remember names now , but both were fine....but you`ve got to remove as much as possible of the rust first anyway...best bet is a wire brush on a drill or equal...and if you get a good clean surface , no need for "rust turn to primer product"
Yes, for the satin black, you can go to Grand National/Shucks/Auto Zone/NAPA (the parts store not the wine country!) or any local auto parts store, and or even Home improvement stores and get what you need. For things like that, I prefer Krylon Brand (which you can get at Home Depot) in a satin. It lasts, and is tough, yet goes on smooth and easy!
Hope you get her on the road soon, so after the rains stop that your having now... you can get a chance to take it out for a cruise!
I pulled my engine for a shady tree rebuild and you know what? You might as well http://home.maine.rr.com/lanesrus/car.htm while the engine is out. (current progress at top). I used high temp aluminum paint on the heads and then Dupli-Color on top. Has held up Ok on the exhaust ports. At least when the blue burns off the aluminum underneath is still somewhat shiney - instead of rusty iron. I used Rustoleum satin black on everything but the radiator - which I used high temp gloss black. What a difference when it was done though!
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I have not tried Rustoleums product when it comes to "turning rust into primer" , but used one or two others 4 and 6 yrs ago, cant remember names now , but both were fine....but you`ve got to remove as much as possible of the rust first anyway...best bet is a wire brush on a drill or equal...and if you get a good clean surface , no need for "rust turn to primer product" 
