I'm looking at a 68 that needs lots of work. The rear window is rusted through across nearly the entire length. I know this is a problem area because the 68 I bought as new rusted through by 1973 and leaked water onto the rear package shelf. Water sets there under the chrome long after the rain is gone and really does some damage.
The one I'm looking at now is rusted most of the way across and leaking badly inside. I know the window has to come out for the repair.
Does anyone know if there are patch panels made to repair this area? What is involved? What should I expect a body shop to cost for a proper and lasting repair?
Repair panels are definitely available and you may even find an NOS piece. Camaro is the same which makes it easier. I think the body work should cost $300-$500 including parts. Paint would be about the same amount because you would have to paint the whole rear of the car because there is no place to stop with a paint line seam. Body shops are hard to predict so the total cost could vary from $500 to $1500. Jim
I had this same prob with mine. I ended up buying a new panel and having it put in. About $50 for the panel, $300 or so to have installed and sealed(probably would have been more if the bodyman wasn't related). My advise would be to try to seal it up without replacing the panel. Maybe sand blast,metal prep and fiberglass or Por15. Gotta try to get all the rust tho. It's a bit*h of a job. That said I'm glad I replaced mine.
I looked up the repair panels and discovered that at least three of the usual suspects carry that rear deck part beneath the window.
Robert, since you've had this done, can you tell me how the new part attaches? Does it underlap the quarters and spot welded in or what? You say you would recommend repair over replacement. Were you less than delighted with the repair part fitment?
I noticed that Ames offers two versions. One is the FK381 which is the part you see from outside of the car. The other is the FK380 which they call "Rear Seat to Trunk Assembly 1/Window to Trunk Panel"
Does the first piece include the window channel surface? What extra is on the more complex part? It looks like it is including the rear package shelf, but the photo is tiny.
The lower molding is flooping around loose on mine, so whatever the molding fastens to is rusted away. I'm trying to recall from working on my 68 thirty years ago; aren't there metal pegs that look like the top of a common nail that the molding clips attach too?
The panel attaches to the quarter "tab to tab". Just like a inner fender or a tail panel. It is like a butt joint. You should be able to fabricate the support pieces that are rusted away. The trim clips are attached with the posts that you referred to. You can use screws instead. Jim
The panel I had was a full bottom window channel to trunk seal channel. It had folded edges on the ends that spot welded to edges that were part of the tops of the rear fenders. Then seam sealed from the corners down(except on verts). If the corner are as bad as mine were the rust and rot extended up the sides of the window channel and those had to be repaired before the new panel. Also the bodyman was giving me grief about the rust that I didn't take care of before I delivered it to him. He must have sandblasted all of it and rust morted before he put the new panel in because I still have sand raining into the trunk when I drive the car. That said, he did an excellant job on the installation. One thing I haven't dealt with yet is the reveal moulding. After all the trouble to replace it I didn't want drill new holes in it. After all that's why I replaced it in the first place. I thought I could just set it in some silcone to hold it on but the curve of the moulding is more severe than the panel and it is going to require drilling and installing the rivits for the clips. If you end up needing some, I have extras. I bought 100. It means pulling the window again so I figured I'd wait for winter. A real PITA. This wasn't the first time I've had the area repaired. Last time it was weld and fill. Lasted about five years. If it's not done right you'll be doing it again.
