Fusor is designed to replace factory panel bonding when repairing/replacing body panels on newer unibody vehicles. Many OEM's (such as Toyota) do not approve of panel bonding when repair their vehicles.
I would not recommend it's use on any First Gen Firebird panel. I have a local collision center that I talked to about removing/replacing full quarters on my '69 hardtop and they were going to panel bond the lower front edges at the rocker panel. I do not agree with this repair and will not have them do it. I will probably do the repair myself (someday).
Anyway - be careful how you use this product. It is designed for a specific type of repair and I have done consulting at collision centers that had technicians that thought this product would replace welding in most cases.
There seems to be a general consensus NOT to use panel bonding adhesives for structual members (rockers, torque boxes, etc). However, I have seen many professionals being happy in using it for such things as new door skins.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I have used a two part metal bonding agent with great success. It CAN'T be used on structural metal though. It works great on a small patch that will not be put under much stress. It is superior to welding for this application because there is no warping or other heat damage. If it is used correctly you can get by with less filler on the seam. I have seen a patch hold up to a direct hit in a collision. It is a perfect fix for a small rust hole in a quarter, fender, door ect. Jim
Salmon! LOL! I'm slow, must be election hangover. Good to agree.
The Eastwood Company beefs up the bonding process for patch panels with flush rivets. They sell a kit. They also have a hot button to a "tech" section that describes the process.
You could go to their website and check it out. Put "panel adhesive" in the search box.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
NO RIVETS!! A paint job will not last on top of a rivet. Try to avoid any holes too. Paint tends to bubble over a filled hole. Rivets have there place and it ain't on a 1st gen. Jim
When I replaced the full quarter on my 69 convertible I used Duramix. I did a lot of research and felt it was a great product. I still did some spot welding and skip welding but the better part of the panel was glued. I did this work about three years ago and still no problem.
Check their web sit they might have what you are looking for.