Just to add more pain to my rebuild, I found a nicked lifter (on the bottom corner, outside the cam pattern), and a stuck lifter (which wasn't stuck before I started the rebuild). I used some very fine sandpaper, on the nicked on and smoothed it out. The stuck one I took apart to see what was causing the stick, but I couldn't find anything, so I cleaned it up and rebuilt it. Seems to work fine now. Has anyone ever done this and then reused it? Looks like it would work just fine...thoughts?
Your probably ok with the un-stuck one if it's all cleaned and lubed with no sticking points in the travel. I'd be concerned about the nicked one. Mainly why it was damaged in the first place. I'd be tempted to just buy a new one and keep it for a back up. Stock lifters only run about $5-$6(last time I looked).
I purchased these lifters from Butler in 2004, and I believe they were his brand. I know he sells CompCams now, can I cross type lifters, or will I need to buy a whole new set? Also, if I do replace the single nicked lifter, what type of breakin proceedure do I use? The Cam has already been broken in with the current set of lifters.
A bad lifter can ruin a camshaft quick, not to mention spreading metal fragments though an otherwise good engine. From the sounds of it, the lifters you have are junk. I wouldn't risk just replacing one or two, as it could cost you much more in the long run (like having to change the cam and lifters anyway, and premature wear on the cylinders/bearings, etc). Replace all 16. A set of lifters costs less than $100. Much cheaper than rebuilding a whole engine.
You can use new lifters with an older camshaft, just not the other way around. Treat it as if you were installing a new camshaft. Put in fresh oil with Zinc additive, thoroughly lube the camshaft lobes and lifters (soak the lifter in oil first) as if you were doing a regular camshaft install. Do the break-in. Then change the oil again and use a zinc additive again.
Mike, I have the same thoughts. A little insurance now makes sense, vice redoing the motor later. Interestingly enough, I've spoken to 2 different, reputible machinist and engine builders, who both have stated that the lifters I have would be fine. David Butler also stated that due to what they've seen with today's oils, he would recommend running the all lifters I have (already broken in to the cam) then put new lifters on it. I must say I've been torn on this issue for the past several days. I hate spending money where its not needed, and I'd be interested to see if the lifters I have will work, but on the other hand, the risk if they do not is expensive. Although it sounds like I could have the same result by trying to use new lifters with an old cam, even if I do the proper break in.....I hate these types of issues.
I did not mean to make it sound as if you should be highly concerned about using new lifters with the old cam. I just wanted to state the best way to do it as to ensure no issues. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Its no more risk than a new cam with new lifters. And much less riskier than using questionable lifters. That nick in the one lifter, or having the other lifter fail again, could easily chew up your cam. I'm speaking from first hand experience. Not to mention if two were bad, what about the other 14?
Yes there have been concerns about "today's oils", which is why I recommended a Zinc additive for break-in and first oil change as a precaution. But, and nothing has been concretely proven that oil was the root cause for past problems. Other concerns were quality of the camshaft lobe materials, and the lifter material and surface grinding (which could be the problem you're having now). I've also heard of lifters not rotating in the bores (which again probably comes back to the surface grinding).
If your engine was built in 2004, it was after the time zinc additives had been reduced anyway. Meaning you broke it in with reduced-zinc oil. Also, over the past few years, new additives have been put into the oils to replace the zinc.
