recently i installed a new tail lite harness, power window harness, turn signal switch, nuetral safety switch, new 160 speedo. everything that was replaced works fine. we were adjusting the windows, and when while doing that we left the key on in the on position. apparently by leaving the key on for a period of time it burned up coil. i replaced the coil and still got no spark, replaced accel pointless ignition module, cap and rotor, and still no spark. i have 12.58 volts at battery but only 11.50 at coil. is my igition fried? or is it a voltage regulator problem?
I noted by accident that the factory resistor wire gets REALLY hot with the ignition left on and the engine not running.
So hot that I decided never to do that again.
I wonder because of that if it's possible to fry the resistor wire.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
i ran a wire straight from fuse panel to a ballist resister, then to coil. still have a one volt drop at resister, and reads around 5.8 on other side of resister. it ran for 2 1/2 years with a blaster coil, accel pointless ignition, with a wire running from coil to fuse panel without a ballist resister, and everything worked fine. i have tryed coming straight off battery, (no spark), did get a liitle spark when i rubbed -wire from coil over valve cover. do i have grounding issue? can that cause a voltage drop? im at a loss, what wire should i b looking for that could b broke or weak that can cause this voltage drop?
finally found a combination that got the car running. used an accel points eliminator with a mallory coil, with a ballist resister still using the wire running to fuse panel. went ahead and timed everything and seemed to b running just fine. we were so happy everything was working, we dicided that everything was looking pretty gaudy around coil,(ballist resister was mounted on top of coil, and plug wires were laying in a bad spot)so we thought we could use the factory power and resister wire coming from car and wire it up to a blaster coil that had been used before, and worked, and everything would have a much cleaner look. we hooked everything up and got nothing, no spark! so tested the blaster coil, and it was shot! dont know how it went bad, but it did. so hooked everything back up to the way it was when it ran before, and now wouldnt fire again. checked mallory coil and ballist resister and they were fine, so i guess the module in distributor is fried once again!when we asked the techs at accel how the blaster coil could work with a accel pointless ignition for 2 1/2 years without any problems, he said "we just got lucky"! come to find out the mallory coil carries lower ohms than the blaster coil, and with the ballist resistor, it kept the module from getting fried. after fighting this problem for a couple weeks now, i have decided to go to a drop in hei distributor. a pointless system may work fine, but right now i dont trust it. if u happen to still b reading this? does anyone know what the correct timeing should be for a 67 400? have it set at 10 degrees advanced. bad thing is i dont know when or how it was rebuilt or if rebuilt at all. i would say it is a rebuilt motor, the module in distributor was from 2005. restoration that was done on it was all to stock, if that helps?
My Chilton's manual says basic timing is 6 degrees before TDC for a stock '67 400.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Pontiac motors like a whole bunch of initial timing, I've got mine set to 16 degrees advanced. You can mess with it going up a couple of degrees and then test drive, when it starts to ping, back it down a couple and tighten the bolt
My 455 is set at 8 BTDC as a result of the dyno breakin runs. It has E-brock heads, mainfold and carb and a roller camshaft.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI