Couple of engine parts questions. I would like to buy parts from one place if possible, but have limited options. Pontiac 400.

1. Summit does not carry the 4040M-10 bearings for my mostly stock rebuild, are the "race" equivalent bearings really any different?
2. What brand of timing gear. I want an adjustable to degree the cam. Summit does not offer an adjustable.
3. Would like to go with Moly rings, brand or part number suggestion?
4. Go with the standard replacement oil pump correct (60 psi)?
5. Rod bearings - anything to be concerned with here; do I go with tapered or not tapered? I would use the same brand as the mains.
6. Lastly - lock tite on the oil galley plugs yes/no? anywhere else?

Wow... Lots of info here...

First, Simmit is the LAST place to buy engine parts. They have no clue, and only sell what pops up on their screen. Highly recommend you go to your local parts people for Pontiac engie parts. Not nearly as rare or "hard to find" as the rumor mill says.

Every warehouse in the country that sells Sealed Power will have a set of 4040M-10s "on the shelf". The Speed Pro 113R is the "race" bearing. Yes, they ARE different. The race bearing has a different overlay and will live longer under HARD usage, where the "standard" bearing will live longer under "normal" (includes spirited street/strip) driving.

Umilke Chevys, there are no "adjustable" timing sets for the Pontiac. The changes are affected at the crank gear, where there's either three or nine keyways cut, to install it "where you want". The "Hex-Adjust" thing is strictly "brand X" (and "Y", but not "A"). Unless you're using some very "odd" cam combo (like an old Ram Air IV cam installed nowhere near where it was intended), you shouldn't need more than one or two of the keyways to put the cam where the cam grinder suggests (always the 'best" place to start).

If you're using standard dimensions (Pontiac, not Chevy) for bore size, Sealed Power E-299K-xxx (where "xxx" = oversize) is called for. The "K" in the part number indicates "moly".

Oil pump is Melling M54D-S. That's the "60 lb" pump. Get a new driveshaft too (IS-54-A).

We use King rod bearings these days. Availability can be "spotty". Federal Mogul 1555CPA-xxx is also a good bearing. You don't need "narrowed" bearings unless you've had "special" crank work done. A largee-than-stock radius in the fillets can require the "N" type. Never heard of a "tapered" rod bearing... "Chamferred" maybe? Functionally equal to "narrowed".

No LocTite. For the external plugs, use Permatex "Aviation". It spreads with a brush (in the bottle). For internal plugs, no sealer is necessary. Be sure to install one with a .030" hole drilled in it "behind" the distributor.

Jim

Jim...

Couple of quick questions...

I agree with the bearing issue, but for the extra price, would the better material in the severe duty race bearings be better/worse for normal street use? Would tolerances be tigher or the same as "run of the mill" bearings?

I have always used high pressure Melling pumps. Any significance over high volume or a standard volume pump?

I have rebuilt a few motors in my day and never asked these questions...Just going with a old timers opinion.

Thanks!

The "race" bearings are made to withstand a much higher "load shock", and are therefore "tougher". They also may fail sooner due to metal fatigue. Usually best to use the bearings designed for the intended use. The 4040Ms have always "held up" fine. Actually, the 113M "race" bearings are a little less expensive than the 4040Ms. Both are "3/4 groove" for oiling. This is the ONLY way to "go". Avoid full-groove bearings for sure!

Lots of "confusion" surrounding what makes up a a "high volume" or "high pressure" oil pump for the Pontiac. Early engines used a 45 lb. pump with a 5/8" pickup tube. By mid-'66, Pontiac knew something had to be done to improve oiling. The 60 lb. "high volume" pump was developed. M54D is the Melling number. While it IS a higher pressure than the little pump, the 80 lb. "Ram Air IV" pump is the "high pressure" pump. M54F. Mail-order houses like Summit and Jeg's are partly to "blame" for the confusion, as they do NOT understand the "quirks" of the Pontiac, and apply "buzz words" from other engines in the descriptions.

In today's terms, the 60 lb. pump is the "high volume". It's also the only we use unless a high rev race engine is being built. THEN, the 80 lb. unit.

Jim

The regular bearings are softer so dirt embeds into their surfaces easier so as not to scratch the crank journals. Typically race cranks are hardened and are less susceptible to scratching, so can use the more durable race bearings.

Tolerances are usually more dependent on the builder's preference than the bearing type.

Thanks for all the feedback to everyone.

Yes, I quickly realized Summit could only serve some basic needs.

I did decide to go with a Summit #2802 cam and cooresponding lifters, and have heard good things about this cam for all around use. Can't beat the price either. Other than that, I bought my degree wheel and rod bolt stretch gauge from them. I am torquing the ARP rod bolts to the recommended stretch.

My #16 heads were rebuilt by a professional and are ready to go with the correct spring pressure for this cam.

I spent some time at my local NAPA parts store last weekend. My bearings and rings are on order, but I could swear that he stated the 4040M10 bearings Sealed Power p/n was different. The number had the 113 in it, but no mention of a "race" bearing. Still Tri-Metal and 3/4 groove though.

I am going with the standard 60 psi pump and new shaft.

Jim, it now makes sense with the adjustable crank gear you mention as I was not sure what options were out there.

I went with the one piece oil pan gasket and Viton rear seal from BOP also.

Any advice on a distributor gear, bronze replacement, or composite?

Also can you elaborate about the 0.030" hole in the plug? For what purpose?

Also, curious what head gaskets you are using? I know the #8518PT kit has a very basic HG which is crap for sealing combustion with our uses. The #1016 is better with the fire ring under the armor which is what I'll go with. I like the multi layered steel but I do not have the optimum service finish for such a gasket. Have you ever built with any MLS gaskets?

Mark

Mark,

The .030" hole in the oil gallery plug that goes "behind" the distributor is a common modification these days. It "pees" oil at the junction of the cam and distributor gears, a known "wear point" with the Pontiac. Very simple change.

The 113Ms are the "race" bearing.

The standard replacement head gaskets are completely adequate for virtually ALL N/A "pump gas" applicatoins. The Felpro "blues" certainly aren't "crap". IMO, the 1016 is a waste of money. We use Victor/Reinz gaskets these days. They're every bit as good, if not better, than Felpro, and actually look "correct". The blue gaskets Felpro provides are a "dead give away" that things have "changed". Victor was OEM for the Pontiac in olden times.

Comp recommends at least one "life" for a bronze gear before installing the polymer gear. The bronze gear is "sacrificial" and wears out over a relatively short time (some as many as 10K miles, others, less than 1K). You "monitor" that by watching igniton timing. It "retards" as the gear wears. Once the gear is to be replaced, THEN use the BOP polymer gear. The idea is the bronze gear "wears" the edges of the cam gear, so it won't "eat" the new polymer gear. The "shards" of bronze left in the oil from the wear are not significant. We've had guys run the polymer gear for 100K miles without issues.

Jim

thanks for the useful info. I'll have all my parts by next week to start the build. what I meant by crap on the FelPro stock replacement gaskets is they crush over time faster than a wire ring design. This would be true for any oem paper type head gasket. I'm partial to FP because I worked there for some time in the OEM group. I don't have much knowledge of the aftermarket paper sandwich gaskets, that is why I asked what you use to build with.

Unfortunately I don't get the Fel-Pro employee pricing anymore. I hate having to overpay for stuff you know costs much less to manufacture. The aftermarket is a racket.

Composite gear is over kill for your build.
Stock factory one is fine.

How far from Indiana are you?
VSI performance warehouse is right off of Cline ave and I94.
If interested, i would have to call in the order, but you can pick up and pay cash. Same low pricing.
Carry Felfro and V/R gaskets(Perfect Circle/MAHLE Corp.).

http://www.vsihp.com

Agreed with Mike. I didn't 'connect' the cam and the question. Flat tappet cams don't need the aftermarket gears.

ALL decent head gaskets have a metal "fire ring". The Loc-Wire gaskets aren't available for the Pontiac, and the "pre-flattened" ones like 1016 simply aren't necessry.

Jim

My only worry with stock HG's is all it takes is one event of overheating to crush the armor to the same thickness as the body. The pre flattened wire ring offers some protection to this as well as more of a bending moment = sealing pressure. I will need to think about your input in using the stock gasket since I have the stock gaskets already with the Full set.

Mike, I'm in the very NW burbs of Chicago so its somewhat of a haul. I just decided to purchase a newly rebuild distributor from Ames for $65 bucks. I think that is a good deal since buying a core and rebuilding it with new parts would cost me just as much or more. Also got a few other things like the adjustable keyway timing gear/chain, distributor vacuum lines fuel pump and line blah, blah, blah...that will be $460 dollars sir... WHAT!

I also learned today that my 400 had a 3 piece oil dipstick tube. I was not aware of that since the P.O. decided to use copper tube as the lower tube. Learn something new every day...