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Don't worry, they will get all gross soon... though my ceramic coated headers had better not! You have no idea. I blew out a valve cover during a short ride about 2 months ago and coated my nice shiny coated header with burnt oil. We are talking HOURS of scrubbing with Soft Scrub and buffing with Brasso.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement
2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered.
2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it)
Old projects, gone but not forgotten:
1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it.
1980 Turbo Trans Am
1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto
1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed
1983 F-150 4x4, built 302
1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
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Speaking of CFM...  Does anyone know the CFM of their clutch fans? My electric fan pair has a rating of 1924CFM. The same company offers a high performance pair rated at 2726cfm. I wonder if that could make a big difference in cooling capacity...
1968 Firebird 400 Convertible Original: Engine, Intake manifold, Heads, Body, Stereo, 3.08. THM400. Engine rebuilt by Ken Keefer early 2012. New: Holley 4bbl 670 HP, hidden iPod setup, RobbMC mini starter, A/C, front disc brakes 
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Valued Mentor
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Valued Mentor
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Try this one. http://www.heathdiesel.com/P/HDP1039/That ought to cool just about anything! I have not checked out the statements in this article but like anything there are formulas and constraints to take into account. http://www.impalas.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2332We heat with wood, and I can state with certainty that the 21" fan moves more air than the 2 x 12" fan to move air out of the sunroom into the rest of the house. That is even without the advantage of a shroud for the stand fan. The 2 x 12" is a window fan that the sash sets against, making a shroud. The stand fan sits a couple of feet behind the same size window on the opposite side of the room. There is a door exactly between for intake air.
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OK, I'm going to have to say it again - because I see a pattern developing here.
EVERYONE I have ever personally known with a classic car overheating problem seems to have experimented with electric fans and found relief finally by going back to a good 'ol HD clutch fan and shroud that the factory designed for their car for A/C or HD cooling applications. This has crossed different makes AND models of cars, too.
I have seen this enough times that I would never consider electric fans as a potential solution. I just do not see how 12 Volt electric fans can come close to pulling the CFM of air like a belt driven metal fan. I'm in agreement on this one. I'm running a 73 455 bored .30 over. I run a stock radiator, stock clutch fan, and shroud and stay at 180 degrees all day.
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Vikki - That post was very informative. I get it now. I told my mechanic I need to experiment with the cooling of a mech fan & shroud. He said higher CFM electric fans are already being picked up and it may not cost me anything... So I guess I'll experiment with those first. If insufficient, back to a real fan I go Also going from 155 tstat to 190. Also switching from gasoline to unused, enriched plutonium.
1968 Firebird 400 Convertible Original: Engine, Intake manifold, Heads, Body, Stereo, 3.08. THM400. Engine rebuilt by Ken Keefer early 2012. New: Holley 4bbl 670 HP, hidden iPod setup, RobbMC mini starter, A/C, front disc brakes
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,719
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Also switching from gasoline to unused, enriched plutonium. Make sure you keep it under 88 mph 
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement
2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered.
2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it)
Old projects, gone but not forgotten:
1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it.
1980 Turbo Trans Am
1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto
1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed
1983 F-150 4x4, built 302
1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
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Posts: 20,054
Administrator
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That explains the rod knock..... Enriched plutonium although a great fuel supplement is hard on parts. I got almost three summers out of my truck before Marty (Calvin Klien) fell out the exhaust pipes and Doc opened the door telling me Iranians blew up my truck... THE END?????
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I have a 68 non-AC car now with Vintage Air.
Running hot. Radiator checked out. New larger fan, 180 thermostat and AC rated water pump.
Next I suspect adding the baffles are my best bet.
I understand the upper filler panels and lower valence, but not the masticated filler panels.
Despite the great pics in this post, I am disoriented without obvious external landmarks. Do they go on the sides of the radiator? What gap are they filling and what exactly do they attach to?
The repro upper panel comes with fasteners. What about the lower valence and masticated panels? What bolts or clips do I use?
Thanks
Last edited by NC69CONV; 05/30/15 09:25 PM.
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Have you figured out your overheating problem yet? I live in Hillsboro,MO. I had the same problem with my 69 Firebird but I think I have cured the problem but won`t know until the temps climb and the rain stops so I can get it out for a long drive. Allen P.S. if you have to any car shows in the area you may have seen my car there.Sorry did not notice your location thought you might have been from Missouri.
Last edited by allen neal; 05/31/15 02:10 PM.
Allen 
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How did you solve? Please see my new post on overheat and AC air baffles.
Thanks
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As I said not positive if fixed or not,but did have it out a couple times and never went over 190 with air on.Never goes over 180 in traffic or sit and idling for hour and a half.The performer intake water crossover is only 3/4 inch opening compared to an 1 1/8 inch opening at the head.I opened the cooling passages on intake by gasket matching it and boring out the opening. Photos attached.
Last edited by allen neal; 05/31/15 02:49 PM.
Allen
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Here is a few more pics.This is all i download but you should be able to see the difference it made.
Allen
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Yikes, way more than I want to do on my fully assembled engine. Hoping I can find easier fixes. Hope works for you.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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All you have to do is take the intake off and then buy a new set of intake gaskets.The smaller holes on the intake is like having a roadblock the water will just clog up there and not circulate correctly causing the engine to build up heat especially at higher rpms.Hope you get it worked out but keep this in mind.
Allen
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