I got the new tank, sender, and straps in....Blew out the fuel lines. Only thing left is to get the fuel pump off the motor.
Problem is the bolts look stripped. Im working on the ground with the car jacked up and on stands, so its not the easiest thing to see (and get at) the bolts.
What I think I see is the front bolt looks like a "bolt and nut" arrangement, but that doesnt seem likely to me.. (could be my old eyes!)
PLease let me know any tips or advice you have for getting this puppy out. thanks !
The fuel pump should be attached with two bolts. Once the lines are free, the pump should be able to be dislodged once the bolts are removed, then brought down and out.
A bolt and nut generally means that the original bolt was dropped and lost, and a longer bolt put in that was too long for the job, so the nut was used to tighten down the pump. Back off the nut first.
If the bolts are stripped, you can use the pump to attempt to influence the bolts outward while ratcheting them out, you may be able to grab good threads to back out the bolt. As it comes away from the block, an oak 1x2 is my favorite tool for persuading objects to back out without damaging them.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
Also bare in mind that the orginal bolt heads from the factory are actually 12 point hexes, not the usual 6 if I remember correctly.
And its tough to get straight on the bolt heads - a u-joint in front of the socket works well.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
It is attached with 2 bolts. They do look like a 12 point hex heads, that may have been stripped. I dont have a set of 12 point wrenches.
Also the fuel line that goes to the carb is frozen on. Cant get that sucker off.
I started trying to get a vise grip on them, gonna try that again tomorrow. . Not alot of room to work from beneath. Do you think I should work from above or below?
If it really is stubborn, I think I might have to take off the ps pump to work on it from above ....
Ill try to upload some pics Thanks ! keep the suggestions/tips coming !
I would try from above. I just got done with a rebuild and I did almost all my work from above except starter,trans,minor stuff. Need some good Liquid Wrench type stuff for the fuel line to help loosen up the line.
PB Blast the fuel line fittings overnight. Also are you using a good set of tubing wrenches. Well worth the investment and will keep you from wrecking the fittings.
Good tip on the 12 point socket by the way....Getting the 12 point socket took them out no problem....
The car has only 31,700 miles on the odometer...And so far, every bolt and nut except for this fuel line, has come off quite easily.... I truly believe the car to be an original low mileage vehicle.
Thanks to all ! I ended up taking the pump off with the fuel line attached. I did take off the power steering pump and alt to get it out. I have it temporarily rigged with a barb fitting and a rubber fuel line up to the carb.
The car starts right up ! The inspection sticker on the window is from 1997...This car has not run in 14 years and it starts right up...
Now on to the brakes....I pulled the rear drums off and found the original brakes on the car....The spring sets are orange and blue, and one shoe had a blue paint (pontiac) mark on the side...
The shocks are the original twisties... Im amazed at how original this thing is
If you have some original inspection markings on your car, I would love to see pics. There is not a ton if info out there as to where and what color the more obscure marks were. I rebuild my front end recently, and found the original inspection marks on the steering arms (green and blue paint) I took a bunch of photos before I repainted them just in case I wanted to do a 100 point resto later.
1967 Firebird 400/4spd all numbers matching 1971 Camaro Pro ET Drag Car 1970 Camaro real Z-28 (needs everything) 1963 Impala 409 dual quad 4 spd 2003 Victory Vegas 2009 Pontiac G8 GT (My wife says I have a problem.....)
Im taking photos of everything I do to the car. Tell me where to look and I will take some shots of the area you would like to see.
If you send me your email or cell # I can email or text you the photos.
I would love to get some expert opinions as to the originality of the car. It will impact how I restore. For example, I want to add disc brakes, but as I'm learning, this may reduce the collectibility of the car. Thanks !