Hello. I haven't been able to find a diagram of a 68 Firebird fuse box - the closes I've come is a 68 Camaro. I found two (1 a diagram and 1 a photo), but they are slightly different although I thought both were for a 68 Camaro.
First, does anyone have one for a 68 Firebird? Second, which of these is accurate? Notice the difference is the wiper & heater are reversed and the picture one has a power/acc @ 30A below the flasher.
Isn't there a diagram of the fuse panel in the Owner's Manual?
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I have a 69, should there be something pugged into the LPS spot in my fusebox? Currently trying to figure out what's wrong with my dash lights, might this be it?
There are two LPS locations, one for a fuse INST LPS and the other a male terminal LPS. The terminal is just for accessories, say you add an aftermarket gauge set and you want the lights to dim with the dash lights. But the fuse, yeah, if it is not there, you won't have dash lamps.
Vikki
1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
Sorry to resurrect this... I'm installing a 68 hood tach, on the fuse block there a few male flat stake-on terminals, one is occupied by two red wires to the BAT terminal, and another is occupied by two grey wires on the LPS terminal. Where should I land the tach wire for the light?
'68 400HO Coupe, 4 spd, 259 interior, Windward Blue. My other car's a Johnson 15 outboard on a '61 Starcraft rowboat... Just sayin'.
Check where the gray wires plugged into the LPS spade go. When GM added an option that needed power from one of those terminals, their harness is split into two wires, one to the option they are powering and the other wire a tap with a connector on it, thus allowing another option to be plugged into that source. Check out this clock harness and you can see the taps off the orange and gray wires. The clock needs 24/7 (orange to the Bat) to run the clock and lamps power (gray to the Lps) to light up the clock when the light switch is on.
Well, wadayano... you're absolutely correct. Clocks getting power from the BAT and the light comes on when I pull the light switch. So I expect then to plug the tach light into the grey splitter, but I've got my aftermarket gauges in that for their backlight. I doubt there's much of a draw so maybe just split it again and add the tach light?
'68 400HO Coupe, 4 spd, 259 interior, Windward Blue. My other car's a Johnson 15 outboard on a '61 Starcraft rowboat... Just sayin'.
ACC tab was free, so used that. Tach lights are on when the key's on... so good to go- will help dry up any condensation that might show up in the fall.
'68 400HO Coupe, 4 spd, 259 interior, Windward Blue. My other car's a Johnson 15 outboard on a '61 Starcraft rowboat... Just sayin'.
That works. Just realize that if you sit with the engine off but the radio on, the light on the tach will be on also.
In the past, whenever I wanted to make something like that splitter/tap, I would stop at Radio Shack. I don't even know where you can get electronics odds and ends locally anymore.
FYI: Radio Shack does still exist as an online parts company.
A backup is the big FYI box stores, but you usually have to buy way more of the needed electrical parts than you wanted.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
X2 on Radio Shack. I’ve found Digi-key helpful for switches, relay sockets and the crimp terminals to lock in them. Their web sight takes a little getting used to because they carry a lot of components. I’ve found their shipping to be inexpensive and quick.
Learn something every day. I thought Radio Shack was long gone. I don't recall them appearing as I search for stuff. I used to enjoy standing in the isles at Shack and designing what I needed. Guess I'll do that on line. I like that Digi-key site too.
History repeating itself: A hundred years ago I would order electronics components from an Allied Radio & Electronics catalog and waited for it to be delivered. Looks like it's back to that. (FYI, Allied Corp. was purchased by Tandy/Radio Shack 40-50 years ago.)
Similar to Performance Bicycle. I used their catalogs to keep my bikes running when I was overseas in the late 80's and then they started brick and mortar stores. There were a bunch of them spread around the Phoenix Metro area and then they started closing up after I moved back here.
Now it's back to a catalog and a web site.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Those spade terminals in the fuse box labeled BAT, ACC, IGN and LPS in the photos, are they fused at all. I don't remember if they are fuse from the adjacent circuit or not.