Anybody have any good advice on removing lower control arm bolts? I'm afraid to whack them which will probably mess them up pretty good. Do they have to be pressed out? If so, is there a special tool?

Also, if the bushing is turning in the control arm, is the control arm history? Is the hole likely worn too big to press in another bushing?

Thanks

Hey
on my car i used a bit of penetrating oil, and just gave them a few good whacks and they came out.. also i replaced the original bushings in them, if you do not have a press just go to a local garage, they charged me $30 canadian to press out all the old upper and lower control arm bushings and put in the new ones,, and the bushings are very inexpensive for stock rubber ones,

If the bushing is spinning in the arm, the arm may still be good, but the bushing is shot, and the bolt may be too.

The bolt is rusted to the metal sleeve in the center of the bushing. The sleeve is supposed to be bonded to the rubber, but it isn't anymore.

Plan on getting (correct) replacement bolts as well as bushings. You may or may not need the bolts.

If the penetrating oil and a hammer doesnt work, and nothing else you try does either...

Cut the bolt off at both ends with a sawsall or hacksaw... cut next to the bushing to the inside of the crossmember, or grind the head and nut off with a grinder. Make sure the spring is out already.

Then you can clean up the arms and have the bushings etc... done. Put it together with new bolts and you got it.

An alternative to try to save the bolts...
cut the outer sleeve of the bushing and carve out the rubber until you can see the center sleeve. Turn the bolt until you can see the roll line of the center sleeve, and spread it open with a cold chisel, then hammer out the bolt. Penetrating oil can help here too.
If you have a torch and a water sprayer, and dont mind rubber fumes and fire, you can cut the outer sleeve and burn the rubber, remove it, and heat the inner sleeve, spread it with the chisel, and tap the bolt out.

If the shank of the bolt is rusted badly, it has lost diameter and integrity, and ought to be replaced anyway.

Thanks. I'll try the penetrating oil and the BFH and then the more drastic measures.

The outer metal part of the bushing is turning in the control arm hole, i.e., the interference fit is now a clearance fit. That's why I'm wondering if I can still use the control arm.

Far out. Cant say as I have ever seen that without a crack in the arm. Guess I was wrong about the rubber being separated, but the methods still work if it comes down to it. Hopefully it is not as bad as all that... but you are in the land of salt and snow

Replacement arms wont hurt anything but your wallet. Better to only do it once.

Scott is right on. Use a saws all and cut the bolt on either side of the bushing. Be careful with the BFH. You will bend your subframe. Be careful cutting too. If your sawsall blade gets to tight against the subframe side it will make it thinner. Saw a little at a time or that rubber will get to smokin.
Jim

That was a nightmare! But it's done. Had to take an angle grinder and remove the drivers side arm in pieces. I guess I need new control arms now.

Question about stock rubber bushings: Do you have to worry about lubricating the lower bolts and the upper shaft? Do the inner part of the bushings rotate on the bolts/shafts or is all the angular motion taken by the rubber twisting?

BOB,IF YOU NEED CONTROL ARMS I HAVE A FEW OF THEM HERE.THEY ARE NOT EXPENSIVE.954-721-1459

Lubing the lower bolts may get you a surprised 'thank you' in 30 yrs or so

The serrated edges of the bushing sleeve hold it still, so it's all in the rubber. It doesn't hurt to put some lube on the bushing ends, though probably not needed. Poly bushings recommend it.

If you lube, dont use patroleum or bearing type grease. Only use something safe for rubber, like lithium or silicone. I think moly is ok too.

I used never seize on my bolts.Stuff works awesome. And remember don't fully tighten the bolts until the car weight is on the suspension.
Bob

I dont know if never-seeze is like Permatex anti-seize or copper lubricant, but if it is, it will eat rubber over time... not actually eat, but cause to swell and distort.

Read the label to make sure it contains no chemicals which are incompatable with rubber before using it around the bushings or their bolts.

Anti seize type products are great if there is no chance of them contacting rubber. Remember that any lubricant gets thinner when hot, and can spread from where it was applied. Even a small amount of the wrong kind can severely distort rubber, though it can take a year or longer to really see the effect.

Bob S. if you are purchasing poly bushings to replace the old ones a very heavy lube is supplied,it is very sticky in order to stay and last. Use never sieze on the bolts. benny