Hi, I have a 67 Conv with a 350TH transmission. It currently has a column shift. Never has had a floor shift. No holes in the floor. Who has done this before? What shifter did you use? Which would require the least cutting of the body? Which one would be the right height? I was thinking of the B&M hammer shifter. Is it an easy hook-up or will I uncover things that I haven't thought about ahead of time? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike
1967 400 Convertible 1978 Firebird 1980 Trans Am Pace Car (Sold) 2002 Ram Air Convertible (Sold) Mike
The B&M would be a fairly easy swap as it is 4 -1/4" mounting screws to the tranny tunnel, a 3/8" hole for the cable and a bracket on the tranny. Follow the instructions and it's a pretty simple swap that can be done in an afternoon. Hang onto the steering column, shifter and linkage in the event you want to go back to original some day. Not to many Firebirds came with the column shift. Just remember every aftermarket add on takes away from the value of your otherwise original car.
"Just remember every aftermarket add on takes away from the value of your otherwise original car." I wish I had realized that when I first bought the car at 18 years old. Now I am older and wiser. It had the 326 engine. That wasn't good enough for me. I needed it to have a 400 engine. So off to the junkyard with the 326. I am still kicking myself.
1967 400 Convertible 1978 Firebird 1980 Trans Am Pace Car (Sold) 2002 Ram Air Convertible (Sold) Mike
I put a B&M Starshifter which is very similar to their MegaShifter in my Barracuda and was very happy with it. Backup lights, neutral safety switch and reverse lockout all worked good. Non console car so the shifter looked like it does in the picture. I had to shape the plastic "base" to the contour of the floor. Super easy to install and set up. I'm sure the Hammer shifter would be similar.
I had a 68, three speed and the column shift. The column shift is very vague and would jam up between gears. I eventually bought a Hurst shifter and had a local mechanic install it for me. I think it cost me two or three hours of the shop labor rate back then. The linkage was accurate and worked nicely after that. That was in 1969 or so.
