Long story short, I had a no spark condition and traced to a bad 12 volt source to the coil(took my car in for service, no idea why they changed the wiring)but when I hooked up a jumper wire from the battery to the coil, she fired right up. So now I need a good 12 volt source for my 67 and need help, as I'm really bad with wiring. Where do I start? Thanks!

If I were you I'd find out why the old wire went bad...before the fire.

Take it back to the people who "fixed it"

Beautiful '67 'vert there. I know the '68's used a resistor wire to the coil. I can't say if '67 did. Can someone confirm? If checked with a voltmeter there was around 8.5 Volts to the coil. This was done to stop the points from frying so fast. If you are still runnin stock type points you will want to watch out for this.
Some guys who converted to HEI have used a relay to give a full 12V to the coil. The relay is activated by the old 8 V wire.

1) Yes I can confirm a resistor wire for the '67's.

2) There is at least one nice aftermarket dizzy that works perfectly with the factory resistor wires - Mallory Unilite.

Literally follow that wire back, wherever it goes. Peel back electrical tape, what ever it takes. Check for voltage at any connection it makes or anywhere it looks suspicious/damaged.

Thanks. I called the shop and they said yes they cleaned up the wiring and noticed that the wire for the 12v source was being shared with the electric choke and we thought that wouldn't work very well. Hey did we forget to tell you that? (YES!)

So my suspicion about being shared with the choke was validated. I want to get rid of that and start over. Problem is I don't know where to start and I think it would benefit from a dedicated 12v source (nothing spliced together)as my understanding is that the pertronix II wants 12v like an HEI. Thoughts?

Will a wire from the starter solenoid 'R' terminal provide a constant 12 volts?

I think that is for a full 12V when cranking and once the starter quits it goes dead.
For the coil you need to find 12V when the key is on and when starter is cranking. Use a test light or volt meter. The original coil wire does this but if its a resistor wire (8 V at coil) you'll need to change it. Trace it back to the bulkhead connector under the brake booster you could remove it from the plug and rewire with a new 12 ga wire. Its a huge pain in the a$$. Another option is to find a source on your fuse box, and run a new wire THROUGH A RUBBER GROMMET to the coil. Never just drill a hole and run a wire as it will rub through and cause a short or a fire. There is some blade plugs on the fuse box you could use.

Just a bit more background.
Car had been running fine for some time, but after having the work done to upgrade my fuel system and swap out the manifold to an OE one ported by SD performance, the car became hard to start cold and then last Saturday would not start at all. I initally found I had no spark and started tracing back to see if I was getting power to the coil.

I did some more testing today and the wire that is currently running to the coil (the one spliced into the choke power) is getting 12v when the key is in the run position, but when cranking drops to less than 9v. Since I am running a pertronix II does it always want 12v or should it at least crank over with 9v? Just trying to see if this issue is maybe the coil itself.
Thanks!

Was the 9V due to a weak battery while cranking? Crank it and check the battery while cranking. If the battery is 12V and the coil at 9V then you have the resistor wire in there and you should change it. You said it started good with the jumper wire from the coil to the battery right?

The "R" terminal on your starter is there to give the coil a full 12V shot while cranking. An extra boost to get the engine fired up. Once its started then the resistor wire will take over.
Maybe you could try running a wire from there to the coil.

Salmon38 said above that a Mallory Unilite coil will work perfectly with the resistor wire. May be worth a try.

Keep us posted on your progress.

I may try as you suggested running a wire from the "R" terminal to the coil. Maybe it just needs a little boost ? Thanks!

The only way 12v will drop to 9v is current draw due to cranking.  That is not a resister wire. Throw a battery charger on it for a while to make sure you are not chasing your tail over 3v.

Yup, had it charging overnight. Will head out to the garage in a bit and see if it made any difference.

Well she's running!

Not sure if it's 100% yet, but I kept thinking why did this car run for a few weeks with the wiring the way it was? I had an old coil in the attic and I said what the heck. Went up there found it and wired it up. Within a few cranks she fired up. For now I'll just get a new coil and see how it goes. But I think some winter wiring may be in order.

Glad you got it running Tony !

Glad shes runnin for ya. Congrats. I still have to wonder did it start because the batt was right full? Maybe the batt. is weak after sitting for a few days and not enough juice to crank it and fire it.

Agree, I'm not thinking everything is solved yet. The battery could be an issue it's about 2 1/2 years old. Funny thing is I charged it earlier in the week too. Maybe a bad/weak cable?

Maybe the coil was NFG and the one you put on is working better??? Maybe this, maybe that, the good news is you got er sparked up again!!!! LOL !!!!

There was a similar situation like this in the tech section of Hemmings Muscle Machines this month.

Apparently newer coils are set up for electronic ignitions and not for points, so old coils work better.

I am assuming you still have a points distributor?

Have alot of aftermarket stuff on my 68, so ran a separate HD wire to a junction block to feed everything.