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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 45
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 45 |
Hi, Replaced the upper dash panel and lost the mounting holes for the lower windshield trim mounting clips. Does anyone have theres off and could give me the hole layout.
Thanks Bob B.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,287
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,287 |
I'll take a look at mine today.When I get home
Jerry Tallman 69 455/4sp Windward Blue, deluxe parchment bench seat, under major restoration je_tallman@yahoo.com
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,902
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,902 |
Got the crap really flying right now, and it's taped up pretty tightly. If Jerry doesn't have the information soon, I hope to undress it for the next step sometime this week.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,902
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,902 |
The photo is my trademark cyberglich. Glad that it doesn't brusn off on cars; otherwise, my wheels would fall off.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,287
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,287 |
Sorry I completely forgot, I will be working on the rollpan today so I will get er done for you
Jerry Tallman 69 455/4sp Windward Blue, deluxe parchment bench seat, under major restoration je_tallman@yahoo.com
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,287
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,287 |
I did some measurements, measuring from the driverside drip rail 13 inches over and up 1/4" from the edge of the dash panel seam is the first hole, the others are all aprox 7 and 1/2" apart and all 1/4" up. spacing is within 1/4" on all of them. I am charging camera battery now and will add pics later
Jerry Tallman 69 455/4sp Windward Blue, deluxe parchment bench seat, under major restoration je_tallman@yahoo.com
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,902
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,902 |
If you are going for a concourse restoration, make sure that you leave a large space between the last two on the right side of the car, and tighten the distance between the last two on the left side. All of which are plotted with black tape.
The problem you will have with copying someone else’s numbers is that the lower molding’s up-down position is a vehicle-specific variable. The bottom edge of your glass, not measurements off someone else’s car, is used to determine the up-down position of the molding. When they assembled the car, they placed the bottom molding against the bottom of the glass to determine up-down positioning; then drilled the holes with self tapping screws.
If you replaced the area where the windshield stops are located, have you mocked your windshield to see how it sits in the block? After all, the bottom edge of the glass determines the bottom molding’s up-down location.
Something to toss on the scale is shown on the wear-and-tear on the clip tool I posted at how to remove a molding. Wtf would I know about this type of work? One thing I do know about this work is that I instantly saw the diamond in the rough when I bought my overpriced, $150 car and was very fortunate to have found it. The mounting holes behind the fenders notwithstanding, after I installed the windshield, I would place the molding against the bottom of the glass to locate up-down position, then drill the holes. This is one of the very few instances in which I would drill a hole in the car after rough metal work was completed. That’s the way I would do it, but it’s your car, so do what you wish.

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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 45
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 45 |
Thanks all for the info. I guess i'll have to place the windshield. The photos and measurements where a greate help whereas I did'nt know how many clips to use.
Thanks again Bob B.
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 45
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 45 |
Hi, Back on the windshield. Does any one have pictures on how the the side and top molding clips are atached to the piilar's on a 67 convertable.
Thanks Bob B.
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