I have not been keeping track of what I spent, it would make me sick. I'm extremly happy with the car. 5 year build and should be finished in 2 months
if you can come up with more parts to replace on my bird, let me know and i'll do it.. when I got the car it already had a 455 in it with 6x-8 heads th400 and 8.5 factory rear. ps pb(drums). Picked it up for $2,200! what a deal.
My build 468 - 455 .50 over E heads 10:1 compression 1.65 comp cam , forged brc pistons, extreme engergy 274 cam, eagle forged rods, endurashine intake on it with demon 750, but I pulled all that off for efi torker IIefi intake and fast mpfi sequenchal xfi 2.0 system with 2x 125hp shots of nitrus under a FUNCTIONAL RAM AIR hood. 65 pound injectors. (running nitrous dry so they are big to support that) march serpentine belt conversion with AC (new style track type) Msd digital 6 programmable ignition, no weights/springs for advance.
trans is 700r4 aluminum drive shaft from the driveshaft shop, strange engineering s60 dana rear with 373 gears and crappy ford stye disc brake kit.(plan on a upgrade on brake system if the stuff I have doen'st cut the mustard)
DSE mini tub leaf springs.. 2 inch lowered with koni adjustable shaved 2 inches off each side of fuel tank 315/35/17 good year f1 gs-d3 tires. (extremely hard to get) should of went with nitto's for half the price 275/40/17 goodyear f1 asermetrial fronts 11x17 torker 2 rear 8x17 fronts
all body pannels replaced except roof and inner fenders. new bumpers, new grill/ headlights assembly(old cracked and broke) currenlty at body shop where they are cutting, shaving, welding, beating on, sanding, filing. ALL METAL no bondo, its costing me a fortune.. the replacement doors alone cost $500 to buy and about $1000 in body work to get them right.
tubular uppers control arms, qa1 coil overs ajustable , quick ratio power steering, front power disc brake conversion(brakes arn't big $$$ ones.. 11 inch rotors.. not drilled, or slotted. tiny calipers. may upgrade if they work like crap, line lock. alumium electric fan radiator
lokar door handles vinage air ac, dakota vhx analog gauges, quick silver shifter, summit seats from there kit they sell which is stupid cause it makes the seats WAY TOO TALL.. drilled out floor, cut holes welded in nuts, welled back in floor. still a little tall, but better... seats kinda sucky.. all new interior.. no deluxe( I don't like the door pannels. power window convestion kit with the 4 switchs in center console smooth fire wall optima in truck with main power kill switch roll bar 4 point + front drown bars to be legal drive shaft loop plan on a nice navagation system with backup cam, but i'm extremely unhappy with the after market stuff available.. alpine is comming out with one that works with a ANDROID GOOGLE phone for pandora streaming... I might consider that.. otherwise it will be a semi cheepo radio with a mount for my 4g phone. keeping the floor vents from non ac car, even though there will be a 6 inch speaker in there and the vintage ac air system, I really like floor vents.. call me wierd. 1967 camaro rear spoiler
all new chrome everywhere 7 way wiper motor ididit tilt steering column american autowire harness
I have lots of advice to someone trying to get in to this game!
My friends and I did the frame off clean up, power-coating, front suspension / stearing/brake work, replaced the upper cowel/firewall, smoothed the firewall, and installed the dse minitub kit. It takes alot of SPACE To build a car. with the motor/tranny/rear end in the car, and all the pannels on the car I sent the car over to a great hotrod shop to finish the build. They insisted doing a complete mockup of everything before they paint the car. They've spent hours on the body bangin, welding.. fixing the aftermarket parts. WHAT A JOB!. startup is next week, then teardown, paint and re-assembly. I can't link to pix from facebook, but do a search for cisco built rides and there will be about 500+ photos of the work. the paint color I choose is a 1967 marina blue (from a corvetts)
I bet your brakes are fine. Drilling and slotting is mostly just for looks. Unless you are autocrossing, you'll probably never have to worry about outgassing.
Which wiper motor did you use? See my Wiper Motor thread on this forum...
I like you kept the Pontiac power plant.
If I had the choice, I'd get rid of my Demon carb too, and go with the MSD Atomic EFI.
The best thing you did was not keeping track of how much it cost!
I went with the flush mount one. didn't see yours.. it has delay (like 7 speeds)
about the brakes.. I do have an adjustable prop valve and will run skinnys and slicks at the track... I abuse brakes.. or drive a hotrod as it should be driven
Little confused as to why one would build such a high-end car and then skimp out on the brakes. Granted you don't need drilled and slotted rotors, but you should have at least upgraded to 13" especially since you have the wheel size to fit it.
yes and no.. slick wheels arn't 17's they're 15's for the rear anyhow.
the car kept getting more and more radical as the build went.. if i started over, might of just bought the whole front clip or atleast did rack and pinion..
