Just finishing up installing new M&H wiring harness, and realized there is no lead for my radio light. I have a retro look AM-FM that has a separate lead for the light. Did the original radios light stay on all the time?
Anybody come up with a clean solution? Really hate to start hacking on a new harness. Maybe connect to the console clock light lead? Or just split the power lead so the light is on all the time?
On an original radio, it should be built into the radio and turned on with the on/off-volume switch so a replacement harness probably wouldn't have one.
At the fusebox with a separate lead you could pick up lights on or ACC .
The reason I ask. The 12v main off the original radio is connected to the ignition/accessory. Then the other 12v for the retro replacement is for standby/preset/memory settings.
Use the original 12v radio wire for main power then tap off the clock for constant standby/preset/memory 12v.
The memory in modern radios do have that drawback. I have that on my hidden system and I use a battery disconnect when the car is going to sit in the garage. Every time I startup, during engine warmup, I reset in a couple stations, tones, volumes, balance, fade and the factory clock.
I have three leads from the radio to the fusebox where I plug each into lugs there for ACC, battery, and lights.
The memory in modern radios do have that drawback. I have that on my hidden system and I use a battery disconnect when the car is going to sit in the garage. Every time I startup, during engine warmup, I reset in a couple stations, tones, volumes, balance, fade and the factory clock.
I have three leads from the radio to the fusebox where I plug each into lugs there for ACC, battery, and lights.
I was wondering if you have a pic of where you plugged in to your fuse box. I'm rewiring some gauges that i wired 20yrs ago when i was 17 and it looks exactly like a 17 yr old wired them. It's almost like someone gave Medusa a wire crimper and said have at it. I was trying to find a reostat controled plug on the fuse box that I can plug directly into.
Your radio may have a seperate lead for the light that would tie into the dash light circuit. Some radio manufacturers do this so you can dim you radio light along with the dash. OEM radios work this way.
I was wondering if you have a pic of where you plugged in to your fuse box. I'm rewiring some gauges that i wired 20yrs ago when i was 17 and it looks exactly like a 17 yr old wired them. It's almost like someone gave Medusa a wire crimper and said have at it. I was trying to find a reostat controled plug on the fuse box that I can plug directly into.
You still need that picture? I've been away for a few days and now just catching up here.
J-Gregs, I had a picture in my files so here it is:
I purchased some connectors at Radio Shack that fit the fuse box terminals and would crimp onto the wires. Fortunately, GM used a "Y" type connector when they used the terminals for options like the clock so the terminals were available.
I wish I had used better looking wire but it is what I could find at the time.
Yellow picks up the dimmer-controlled power for the light.
White picks up "acc" accessory power to turn on the radio.
Brown picks up the constant 24/7 +12v for preserving the stations' programming.
Hey thanks. I ended up wiring mine up this weekend before I saw your post but thanks. I think I've finally got things back in order. A lot less electrical tape and poorly grounded wires. I went to radio shack, but they only had red and black wire so I ended up going to west marine. Pretty expensive wire and connectors , but the connections should outlast the rest of the wiring. Thanks again.
One thing you want to keep in mind is that the always hot memory-power has ZERO draw as far as running the battery down. Mine can go many months and it has zero affect on battery drain. And I will bet big money that there isn't a car on this message board that has a system, and its related components, that have the amperage draw as my mega-suck electrical demand than the system I have in my car. The picture I posted at the fold down rear seat is merely the tip of the iceberg, one dinky component.
If the memory drains your battery, you have something hooked up incorrectly. Myself, I would rather put forth the effort to fix whatever is wrong rahter than jury rig around it.
After I installed my Secretaudio I noticed the battery would run down if the car sat for a while. I double checked my wiring and measured the draw. It was pulling 50ma when off. I even sent the radio back to the factory where they verified that it was within specs. At 50ma, in a 24 hour period that's over a full AMP Hour.
Add the regular spiked draw from the clock winder solenoid since I had the clock fixed and it doesn't take to long to significantly drain the battery.
I added a battery cutoff and now live with resetting the stations and clock when I take the car out.
