I just wasted the morning reading posts on different websites about engine vs chassis numbers. There are too many things to nail it down the but some guys have done back to back testing and have come up with a 16-23% range of hp numbers. I guess the best you can do is go right in the middle without doing it your self. Of course higher hp engines have a different range so I tried to pick out the ones in the 3-400hp range where most of us sit. They say a man car will generally be a couple of percentage points less that an auto. They say a Mustang will give lower numbers than a DynoJet machine as well. In the end it's just a best guess unless you want to pull your motor and take it somewhere for an engine dyno pull. Dyno Day
Yeah that was back in 07 with the old motor. 297HP/360TQ. Fell flat on it's face after 4800rpms because the valve springs were too weak. I did win $100 that day for being the only one that could meet all the street class requirements though.
That is very impressive and seems about right. approx (like you said) 20% driveline/trans loss. would be 360 Hp (pontiac always understated HP for insurance).
So is the new motor stronger (of course it is, why would you make less power LOL !!!)
Well I haven't had it tested yet but I would hope so. Not sure how much better the numbers would be(I'll find out sometime this summer) but it is indeed a stronger motor than before. It might not show it because I'll be having it done run a Mustang machine which evidentally show typically lower numbers than other brands. But it's just for giggles anyway. It can be a bit deflating when your numbers come in at around 300HP and you hear new cars being rated at 500+ every night on TV. But also alot of fun when you kick their tail on the street and then tell them what HP you're running too. Of course they just know you're lying because there's no way you could beat them if that was really the case.
That's not as easy as it sounds either. There's alot that goes into making a decent run at the track. You really have to put alot of runs in to get consistant results. I for one am a crappy driver and can't seem to get out of the hole decent so my timeslips generally suck. You have to have a decent launch. Then you have to know where your shift points are. Track conditions and weather, tire inflation, reaction time, all figure into it so you can have a powerful car and it might not show in your timeslips.
The MPH is the closest indicator of how much actual horsepower the engine is making not the ET. Tire slippage and reaction time really are not a factor at the end of the 1320.
I would agree that RT doesn't have an effect. Tire slip might have a effect to a certain extent. I know that I have left the light and after reaching about the 40ft mark the tires lost grip and went up in smoke. I had to let off till they caught again and then back in the game. The ET was around 15.7 but the miles MPH ended up at 103. I normally only make around 99MPH with a decent run. It really depends on how much time you spend in the best power range for your car. If you spend more time under or over you're bound to lose ground. Like I said it really depends alot on how good of a driver you are if you're going to base anything on timeslips from the track.
True. The best you can hope for is some sort of a ballpark but I'd rather rely on someone that does it for a living and knows his machine well as opposed to me guessing.
Funny, last time I went to the track I went up against a new 6.1 Hemi Challenger. This was a couple of years ago and it was the first one I had seen up close but had heard some of the buzz leading up to the release. Of course I thought great, I'm going to get my [censored] handed to me. Well i went 13.9 and he did 14.5. I talked smack all the way home. But then you just don't know how good of a driver he was. Lots of things can have an effect on the outcome.
