I need some help. I want to swap out my buckets in my 67 conv to a set from a late 80s firebird. Can anyone tell me what is involved? thanks in advance.

before i give you an idea how to do this, let me say. you are dealing with a convertable and center body weight could hamper ride, performance, and body integrity. i personally would look for seats with correct bolt patterns.
i assume you have an overlap(seat runners on new seat are longer than originals)
1st, check the width of the new seats to be sure they will fit between the hump and door.
cut a piece of plywood to fit between the hump and the inside of door opening and overhanging the original seat mounts by 4 inches front and back (plywood should be thick enough not to bend when ya put seat on it).
mount plywood in place of current seat, with equal overlap front and back (ya might have to counter sink bolts to allow seat runners to set on wood)
staple or tape a piece of corrugated cardboard to plywood.(cardboard should same size as plywood)
set seat where ya want to mount it on top of cardboard, and mark mounting holes.(also mark original mounting bolts from plywood).
mark cardboard with a felt tip marker as to side
(driver or passenger)this is your template.
remove cardboard and save.
repeat on other side, using a fresh piece of cardboard.
take your templates to your local steel works and have them cut the pieces you need (3/16 with minor overlap, 1/4 for major overlap)complete with holes.
mount steel plates to car, then seats to plate.

now, i still urge you to find seats with the same bolt pattern.
at the very least, install a set of x-braces for stability.

btw, you dont need to cut your steel with the big overlap like the plywood. except where the new bolt pattern actually goes that far(which is unlikly) ask your steel guy how much overlap(from outer bolt pattern) you need with the steel in question. he should know his product.

Old Farts method sounds pretty good. I did it a little different when installing seats from a 94 trans am. Here's How: Remove the slider/mounts from your existing seats (4 bolts) and adapt them to your new seats. You will probably need to make 2 adapter plates. Also, when mounting the new seat to the floor if it is not level install shims between the floor and the seat bracket. This might require a few longer bolts. Buy a 1/8th to 3/16th inch thick bar of steel or aluminum from Home Depot/Lowe's and some metal cutting jig saw blades (or use a hack saw. Make the adapters and shims from this. Prime and paint the adapters and shims flat or semi-gloss black.

Drew here in town did some "modern seats" that look really good , front and rears from a late model Bird...email him for pics and info...
KHelm@reliant.com
at work...

I just bought some seats from a late 90 camaro, i would like to do the same. I hope its not too much of a PITA.
I hate the stock seats after 21 hours sitting on those i want to burn them

Chondro, just get new pads, springs and seat covers from NPD or other folks! Its not that expensive to re-do the original seats.

obviously, you folks dont wear a cowboy hat!!!
i love the low-back seats. nothing there to hit my hat brim. LOL

I got Corbeau Sports Seats going into my car. They have a direct bolt in seat frame for 1st Gen Birds and Camaros.

I got the seats uncovered and had them upholstered to match the rear seats.

npan,

I sent ya an email explaining, but since there's so much interest I'll post it here, as well.

I've seen it done 2 ways.....the way I did it and the way others have done it. They are essentially the same, but here goes....

I'm not familiar with the 3rd gen seats, I'm using 4th gen seats, but I've heard that 4th gen seats are a direct bolt in for 3rd gens.

I got a set of power leather buckets out of a 97 Z-28....seat brackets would have same mount holes as a 4th gen Firebird or TA. The front holes on the 4th gen seat brackets line up perfectly to the front floor pan holes in first gen cars. The trick is the rear and it's essentially just modifying the "feet" on the 4th gen brackets.

I wanted to maintain the 6 way power adjustment so I kept everything from the 4th gen seats. By doing so I also gained about 4 inches of leg room from the first gen seats.

Basically, I cut the feet off the rear seat bracket legs. I made bases out of 1/8th inch x 1 inch flat bar by cutting 2.5 inch lengths. I then drilled a hole in the center of one end and loosely bolted it to the floor. I then positioned the seats in place and bolted down the fronts using the original holes and lined up the rear feet under the legs of the seat brackets and tack welded them in place. I then unbolted the seats and finished welding the new "feet" to the legs of the seat brackets.

The passenger seat does require a 1 inch spacer to lift the front of the seat so it sits level. I used a 12 inch length of 1 x 2 square tube as a spacer, drilled 1/4 inch holes and used longer bolts to bolt the front of the seat down.

I also ran a power wire to the driver seat using a switched source under the dash.

The rear seat requires a little more work. You have to make a bracket to bolt the seat back to, then make another bracket to facilitate the upper latch mechanism to if you want the seat functional. The seat bottoms fit between the trans tunnel and door panels, but have to be trimmed on the bottom to fit over the torque boxes made into the floor of a first gen. To do this you simply cut the metal support rod about 2 inches above the lower corner then cut it about 4 inches forward of the corner on the bottom and remove. Use a straight piece of metal rod to replace the piece you cut out. Basically the outer bottom corner of the seat bottom will now be straight "/" instead of "L" shaped. You then have to make a bracket to botl the front of the seat bottom to. I used GMs design....saw how it was installed in the 4th gen and recreated the same type bracket for the front edge of the seat to mount to. It's held in place with 1 bolt through a single metal loop on the bottom of the seat.

Clear as mud?

Hope that helps! The front seats are a BREEZE the rear is a little more work, but still not hard!

Drew