The difference is that the cam sprocket timing mark on the 69 is pointed down at about the 6 o'clock position. All the other timing marks are the same. (harmonic balancer and oil pump gear) I am looking to see if I have a diagram.
My husband is still baffled. Please help any ideas on how to make this engine run. We won't be able to think of anything else until still puzzle is solved.
Was the cam tower milled to compensate for a reground camshaft? I ran into a situation with my engine where the cam tower was not the stock height due to a previous owner milling it. I milled it again to compensate for a regrind and it held my valves open after assembly. I ended up shimming the cam tower to the point in which the compression came back up on all cylinders. Have you ran a compression check yet? What is your cold cranking compression on ech cylinder? You should do this to determine which cylinders have compression or if any do.
I fail to see how a compression guage will answer anything becuase the only thing a compression guage will tell you is that there is no compression, something you already know. Also, compression is a varible, meaning just a litle versus a lot. Even if you discover that you only have a little, the guage isn't going to help you figure out what's wrong.
When you say compression, are you refering to the amount of cylinder pressure (measured by pounds-per-square-inch) that builds up as the pistion comes up. Or you talking about combustion? (Actually, it would be called ignition becuase you cannot have combustion without ignition.)
Is there no spark at the plug or is there no air pressure building up in the cylinder?
Well the last time I checked a Compression/Cylinder Pressure Gauge was a diagnostic tool. By taking the measurements at each cylinder one can determine which cylinder(s) have pressure and what they are. One can compare those numbers to each of the others and to known acceptable numbers. (~180ish psi for a Sprint and ~165ish psi for a 1 BBl) If cam timing has been confirmed and there is no compression/psi, then either the cam tower has been excessively milled or the valves are too tall, or lash adjusters pumped up.(metering tube installed? spec oil pressure?)Too much oil pressure in these engines will cause the lash adjusters to pump up too much and keep the valves open. Was the oil pump spring pressure increased? Was the lash adjusters filled with oil prior to install? (should not do that) There are a few things that could be wrong with this rebuild, and I am trying to help this person out. During my Sprint rebuild I had a similar problem and mine did not start. I knew my valve tips were within spec and the oil pump was within spec also, so I took cylinder pressure/compression measurements and saw that a couple cylinders at the front of the engine had no pressure. The others had some, getting higher at the back. So I incrementally increased the gasket material, taking measurements at every iteration and find out that at .060" was optimal for max/even pressure readings. Started the engine and broke it in. Then I fabricated a copper plate and placed it under my cam tower to replace the gasket material. Engine made 200 SAE Net HP and 260 Ft/lbs on the dyno. Kelly please pm me so I can help you and your husband figure out the problem.
I have had issues getting these engines to run even after doing a simple cam belt replacement. Have you tried leaving the distributor cap a little loose and tweaking one way and then the other. It doesn't take much to prevent these from starting. Also if you haven't done it already, you may want to consider pulling the distributor and running the oil pump a while with a drill to make sure there is still oil in all the right places. I made a makeshift large screwdriver out of a piece of metal dowel to run the oil pump, worked great.
