I recently did a Mustang...sanded down to bare metal --> Premium Filler (skim coated the car) --> epoxy --> Primer --> 5-coats of color/base --> 4 coats clear. Here's some pics:
SKIM COAT
EPOXY
BASE COAT
CLEAR COAT
I know, I know...this isn't a Firebird. Sorry guys. I'll get to that soon and it will be better than this one.
1967 FB 400 4-speed A/C Tyrol Blue w/ Dark Blue 1967 GTO 400 AT A/C Gulf Turquoise w/ Black (dad's 1st car, my last car)
Thanks, but you both have a different order in which you did things correct? If I take my car to bare metal then what Bill says is to etch prime followed by high fill primer. Looks like Gasgacinch did it first with filler then primer?
Has anyone used or heard of this SEM product?
METALOCK DTM High Build Primer is a true direct-to-metal epoxy primer designed for metal, aluminum, SMC and fiberglass. ML010 utilizes the latest technology to provide superior adhesion, outstanding corrosion protection and exceptional sanding properties creating a solid and dependable foundation for any project.
I would assume this does both etch prime and high fill prime? then followed by any skim or guide coat and then base/clear?
I don't know Chicago's climate, but here in So Cal it's dry and not too much humidity, so I was able to leave large portions of metal without any coating for a long time without any rust. Plus, the car was in my garage with a cover. I would definitely put a coating on bare metal if I were you.
If you remove the skim coat/filler process, the order in which we painted our cars is not much different. Notice he used a sealer. You should check your materials to see if this is recommended. Sometimes it is, sometimes it's not necessary.
My garage isn't setup to spray, but I managed my painters work closely and he worked with a PPG rep using waterbase paint(yes, I live among a bunch of tree huggers here in California).
Sorry, no experience with SEM's product you mentioned.
1967 FB 400 4-speed A/C Tyrol Blue w/ Dark Blue 1967 GTO 400 AT A/C Gulf Turquoise w/ Black (dad's 1st car, my last car)
The "order" in which you do things isn't really a decision a person makes...it's a decision your material system makes for you.
Choose your favorite filler, and follow their directions. And choose a compatible primer/paint system you like, and follow their directions.
For example...whether or not you can or should put a filler over a primer or even over existing prior paint work depends on brand/type of primer, and brand/type of filler. Sometimes you can, sometimes you can't. And, as already mentioned, it's the same for sealers, etc. What works for one system will not necessarily work properly within another system.
Ok thank you. I am nearing the point with my metal work where I will media blast the car (or not)next, but I think the plan will be to use a PPG base/clear next spring and now I would like to at least get something over my bare metal where I am doing the body panel work.
I had a hood chemical dipped awhile back and the stripper would epoxy prime right after as an option. I would use epoxy on bare metal. Very sturdy stuff and will protect against the elements for as long as you need. I also live in tree hugger country but things will begin to flash rust as soon as you wipe of the moisture from bare metal unless you wash it with solvent to evaporate it.
Update: I've got one more bottom floor brace to install and I am sending the car to get media blasted.
In talking with the guy who is going to do the work, he quoted me to media blast the body shell on the rotisserie, and he is going to clean and seal with PPG DP90 Epoxy primer when done.
I have decided to put the seat pans in after it comes back to keep media being trapped although I could do it either way.
Good idea to wait on the brace. Ihad the piece under the back window installed and the body shop sandblasted before they welded the new panel in. I had new sand in my trunk for about 3 years afterward.
