Wierd, but I can't get them to go out all of the sudden. Checked and lubed both push-switch assemblies in the doorframes, but all they do is make the lights blink a little when pushed. Easy fix to prevent draining the battery was of course just to remove the two bulbs in question til we figure this out.
I am assuming next step is replacing the entire headlight switch on the dashboard, but hoping a few of you may have some ideas. For the record, everything on the headlight switch assembly works fine, including the rheostat that brightens/fades the dash light bulbs. Thoughts?
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
My '67 had this problem in two different manners. One was when the courtesy under dash light assemblies were losing ground to the body. The second time was a sticking relay in the engine compartment. One good rap with a screw driver to the relay housing would allow them to go out. good luck!
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
Bob S is correct. There are no relays in this circuit, and the wires to them are always hot. When one of the 3 switches closes to ground, the lights all go on.
The only way this could be the headlight switch is if it is grounding where it shouldn't (stuck to ground)...you can pop it out and see exactly how it functions by studying it...the connect/disconnect is external to the switch and visible. When you switch it over to "courtesy light on" position you'll see a tab that pushes to a ground. If this releases fully when you shut the lights "off" with the switch, this is not your problem. If it sticks to ground, this is your problem.
Also you can pull each jamb switch out of the car and disconnect. Does one make the light go off when the switch is disconnected? (make darn sure the other door is shut and the headlight switch is in "off" for courtesy lights when you do this, or you're spinning your wheels LOL.) If yes, there's your problem right there...buy that jamb switch and replace. If light is still on when the switch is unscrewed and disconnected, this switch is not your problem...move on.
The moment any portion of the circuit grounds, the lights go on. They are otherwise normally NOT grounded, this is how they turn off...the door plunger switch breaks ground when it is pushed in, shutting the lights off.
If you exclude the 2 door jamb switches and the headlight switch from accidentally grounding when they shouldn't, there is a small wiring diagram for the courtesy lights in the service manual, in the "accessory" section. It will help you follow wire colors, etc. The wiring diagram for this circuit is NOT on any of the main wiring diagrams for this car...it's a standalone diagram.
I had this very prob a couple of years ago. Turned out that one of the courtesy bulb assem under the dash had popped out of the holder. Pushed it back in...done deal.
Alright guys, I'll take the easy way out first and check Firebobs comment. Makes good sense because, as I said, the lights do flicker. Other possibility I guess could be a cooked wire, as these assemblies and connections do get quite hot from the bulb heat. Melt down.
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
I had this exact problem. lights would flicker as I was driving and going over bumps too. One of the courtesy lights under the dash had popped up out of the holder and grounded the circuit making all the lights come on.
Hey John. Sorry but I just don't post that much anymore. After all, when you do a post to try to help someone and some posmf is lurking in the backgroud wating to insult me, I say FU. All I can say is that these pmf need to stay hidden behind their keybaoards.
Even so, I still have to help out the decent people on the board, and I know for fact that you will not get this tidbit of advice, kinda like the brake rod-to-pedal rod being too tight. Had I not mentioned this in PV (pre-Vickie) days, it would not have grown into what it has grown.
Before you tear your car apart, try this: milk a couple of drops on wd into the plunger. Hold it down, and allow it to snap up. You will have to do both sides, and do it multible times. I feel more than confidant that this will solve your problems, or I wouldn't waste my time at this shithole.
I know everyone says this, but I'm the only one who means it or has done it. I have done it countless times on many vehicles. After all, wtf does a chassis man do while on the job--talk about frame specifications?
The fact the door switches cause the lights to blink makes me believe it's one of the door switches, as stated more than once above if the under-dash light socket assy. comes loose and touches a ground the lights will illuminate.
...... as these assemblies and connections do get quite hot from the bulb heat. Melt down.
Hi...new to the forum (as you can tell by my post count)...I noticed the other day the dome lamp gets extrememly hot...like "melt the skin off your finger" hot...and the insulation on the wire above the holder looks pretty toasty....is it really normal for it to get that hot?? The original lens cover looks fine...
I thought the same thing on mine. Opening and closing the door would make the lights flicker...the movement was enough to wiggle the socket under the dash enough to make them flicker. I even pulled the door jam switches to replace them. There really isn't much that can go wrong with them.
...... as these assemblies and connections do get quite hot from the bulb heat. Melt down.
Hi...new to the forum (as you can tell by my post count)...I noticed the other day the dome lamp gets extrememly hot...like "melt the skin off your finger" hot...and the insulation on the wire above the holder looks pretty toasty....is it really normal for it to get that hot?? The original lens cover looks fine...
I had the same problem(except the dome light since I have a ragtop...) The courtesy light sockets were lose, and not grounding properly, as mentioned above.
I'm a hobbyist. Not a professional. Don't be hatin'!
Miss you Amervo my friend! Just spent the last weekend in DC/MD/VA going around and around and around that frigging Beltway....now I remember why I moved to TN!
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
That darn bulb and all the parts around it DO get very hot, Eric. Somebody here has probably identified a new modern bulb that does not burn your fingers.
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
That darn bulb and all the parts around it DO get very hot, Eric. Somebody here has probably identified a new modern bulb that does not burn your fingers.
...yeah just for the heck of it I picked up a replacement bulb at the local auto parts store....same thing, gets super hot
Oh yeah, they get super hot. Hey, before I check out the courtesy sockets as the problem, clear up one thing - I have a passenger-side lower socket and the upper dome light socket...you guys know of any other courtesy light that I've been ignoring for the past ten years?
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
You've probably already checked this but are the switched in the door jamb working properly? If they don't register that the doors are closed the light will not turn off.
Yep, you guys and gals were right, as usual. Looked under the drivers side, dug a few connections out and ...what, a light socket with tape on it? Seems the last owner, many years ago, had an issue and just decided to cover the socket with tape?
Well, that discovery got my mind going (work with me here folks) so I looked back over at the passenger side assembly..saw that the socket had come out of the metal holding bracket....
WAIT! Suddenly a light came on (in my mind, no pun)...and I went over and opened the infamous "box of unknown Firebird stuff NEVER to be thrown away"...and found this:
Bingo, my friends.
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
Evidently they cahnged the holder design for the 69s because that looks totally different than the one in my car. So did the lights go out in Nashville finally?
Not sure if this is the "correct" bracket for the drivers side of a '68 coupe, FB Bob, but I screwed it in to an empty hole where it should go, it had the right angle for sure, screwed a bulb in and it lights up the whole drivers area. I'm impressed, and glad I put the bracket in to the "box of stuff never to be thrown away" back in 2004...paid off.
Now, sports fans, whats the right bulb number for these courtesy lights? The one I put in lights up the whole dang car...
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?