HI I GOT A PROBLEM WITH MY 400 OVER HEATING CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF IT WOULD MATTER WHERE #1 IS ON CAP MY ROTOR BUTTON POINTS IN FRONT ON LEFT SIDE BUT THE BOOK I HAVE SAYS IT SHOULD POINT IN BACK ON RIGHT SIDE.. ROTOR TURNS COUNTER CLOCKWISE..IT RUNS GREAT JUST HEATS UP..COULD IT BE BECAUSE I DONT HAVE THE THERMOSTAT IN IT?OR DO I HAVE THE WRONG DIVIDER IN IT ? ANY HELP WOULD BE GRATLY APPRECIATED... THANKS RON...
The position of the Dist/Cap/Rotor should be ok as long as it's all set to function properly etc.
It sounds like if you have the initial timing set right, and the advance is working properly, that as you mention not having a T-Stat in?
That would be one contributing factor to heating up... Another would be the devider plate not being close enough to the impellar of the water pump when they are together. Then there is always a posibility of the carb being slightly lean... again, another common contributor to a hot Poncho.
So maybe install a 180 T-Stat, then try it out.
Double check the timing/dwell, and carb settings
Then if you have to... check to see if the devider plate is close enough to the impellar fins on the water pump. (this topic has been brought up a few times but here is the whole story) http://www.wallaceracing.com/water-pump-mods.php
if it runs great the spark plug wire position is probably not a problem.
One other thing aside from what everyone else has mentioned.
do you have a 4-core radiator? 400's need a big radiator. Also, check your fan clutch. If it's not spinning fast enough the engine will overheat quickly, unless your driving on the highway.
THANKS ALL FOR INFO. BRETT THOSE LINKS YOU GAVE ME HELPED ALOT I HAD THE WRONG DIVIDER PLATE IN IT.AND IM GOING TO PUT A T-STAT IN IT TOMMOROW WHEN I GET THE GASKET 4 PUMP...THANKS AGAIN RON.....
Of course it matters where #1 is because Pontiacs will run 180 degrees out of time. #1 being opposite of where it should be, seems to point to the engine being 180 out of phase.
One step at a time: Look at the timing mark on the harmonic balancer. There are 2 crank revolutions for each cam revolution. That means that the zero mark is on #1 every other crank revolution.
Imagine the timing gears as this happens: When the timing marks align, the engine is on # 1. The distributor should align with #1 on the cap. If you were to turn the crank one revolution, so that the crank would be again at zero on the harmonic balancer, the distributor will fire whatever cylinder that one happens to be. You need to consult people who understand numbers and know how to spell to find out which cylinder is the one that fires on the other than #1 zero on the crank.
I'm rewriteing this part because I didn't say it right, and it's past my bedtime. You have 2 crankshaft zeros to contend with.
I cannot remember whether the distributor has to be 180' out of phase, meaning that the distributor needs to be pulled and rotated a half turn, or if the wires have to be changed in the cap. The thing is that Pontiacs will run 180' out of time.
Rather than staying with my explaination, I block deleted. (I'b be willing to bet that you could plug "Pontiacs running 180' out of time" into a search engine, and find the technical explaination.) Regradless, this is how you verify the timing whether or not the engine is 180' our of time.
Pull the left rocker cover. You have to pull the cover not fish in the spark plug hole for tdc because on one zero-marker revolution, #1 is at tdc (ignition), and #1 is at tdc (ehxaust) at the the other zero-marker revolution.
Turn the engine over to zero. As you come up to to zero, if #1 exaust vale is closing, that's the other than #1 cylinder's turn to fire. Rotate the crank another time. As you come up to zero, the intake valve should be on its way closing and be closed when the crank hit's the zero timing mark.
At this point, the engine is fireing on #1. Pull the cap. If the rotor is facing as the book shows, but the cap is wired so that the other-than-#1 cylinder is fireing, the wires are 180' out. If the rotor isn't facing the correct position, the distributor is 180' out, and it needs to be lifted up, turned 180' then dropped back in.
I don't remember if the engine can run 180' out under one, the other, or both conditions (that is if both condtions are possible.) The thing is that you must follow a methodilogical process, using a step-by-step process, rather than simply ripping into it without the mandatory 1,2,3 process, so make sure that you start with making sure that the zero is #1 tdc on the ignition stroke. If you do this simple step, it will be more than clear whether or not the engine is 180' out of time. The only thing that doesn't remain clear to me is whether it's caused by the distributor or wires out of sync.
You didn't mention what year of car you have. The 1967 and early 68 Firebirds have an 8 bolt water pump and a 2 piece divider plate. So don't be to hasty about chucking your divider plates. If it fits in there it's probably the correct one. They also don't use the rubber donuts that come in the typical water pump gasket kit (those are for the late 68's and 69 Firebirds with the 11 bolt pumps). I agree that you need to be running a t-stat. Without one you don't give the coolant time to cool in the radiator before it goes through the engine. I would find one in the 180°-190° range.
1) impellar...looks like you`re already looking at it... 2) yes, get a T-Stat inthere , w/o it water will run too fast thru the radiator ,not getting enough time to cool down... 3) is it an A/C car or 400? you might be missing the fillers? should be 3 of them , the "X" fillers, the masticated (rubber) on ea side of bottom of radiator, the lower air baffle
WELL I PUT THE PUMP&T-STAT IN IT.IT SEEMS ALOT COOLER.. BUT I THINK I'M GOING TO HAVE TO PUT SOME OCTANE BOOSTER IN THE GAS I GET BELLS WHEN I TRY TO GAS IT HALF WAY TO THE FLOOR.. BY THE WAY IT'S A 68 CONV. WITH 8 BOLT HOLE PUMP..RON..
Might want to double check your Vac Adv. to make sure it's advancing your timing as needed? Might need to reset the initial timing, and check the dwell, and make sure your Vac Adv. is actually advancing...
What heads do you have on it? Maybe #16's? With Higher comp. heads, you'll have to really dial in the timing sometimes to avoid detonation...
I GOT O67 HEADS ON IT 335HP PLUS I GOT A LITTLE ABOVE STOCK CAM IN IT WITH A ELDERBROCK SPIDER INTAKE AND A HOLEY 650 THAT I'M THINKING ABOUT GETTING A ELDERBROCK CARB IF I CAN'T FIND A ROCHESTER CARB... I'LL DOUBLE CHECK THE VAC ADVANCE AND RECHECK TIMMING.. YES MIKE I DO HAVE A FAN SHROUD ON IT... RON.......
Ron, nice set up! That will get you down the road! But yes, you'll have to get her dialed in pretty well to avoid detonation... but it can be done! Just ask Quenton (PMI) he used to have to run full race gas for quite some time in his Goat!
Ron, if you were to get a simple Accel HEI set-up (100 bucks including new spark wires) you could avoid all that distributor troubleshooting and move on to simpler things. It made life alot easier for me on my '68 400. I've spent thousands on this car, and that was the smartest 100 bucks I've ever spent. I can send you the part numbers I bought, they are readily available in your town for sure.
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
Hey, Nash, are you saying that you don't need to run premium if you have HEI? Somehow that doesn't quite click...HEI does not have a detonation sensor, how does that help, other than reduced point service and spark energy? Can you tell I still run points?
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
No, I did not say anywhere there was a connection between HEI and type of gas used. Not sure where you saw that. I was just telling Ron that switching to HEI will simplify things with regards to troubleshooting and setting up his bird.
My bird sucks only hightest as you know, with or without HEI.
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?