Thanks. I guess the only way I am going to know is to get one out of the hub. Since I have never had to do this are there any special tools that I am going to need or can I just beat the crap out of it with a hammer?
They aren't that hard to knock out. Put a pipe sleeve behind the drum so you don't bend it when knocking the stud out. Pull the new one in by tightening the lug nut over a sleeve on the front. Not too difficult a job.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
A big brass punch works well. They are made for situations like this. Won't damage the stud but transfers the impacts from the hammer.
One of those tools that I once I bought one, I couldn't see how I got along without it. Usually found at the stand of that one vendor selling cheap Chinese tools who seems to be at every auto parts swap meet.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Not a hard task. It does help having two people to counter act the blow forces. A little heat can also help but don't go crazy because I believe they are hardened materials.
They aren't that hard to knock out. Put a pipe sleeve behind the drum so you don't bend it when knocking the stud out. Pull the new one in by tightening the lug nut over a sleeve on the front. Not too difficult a job.
I was told to line up the grooves with the new stud so as not to ruin the hub?
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
I also thought some studs had to be press fit in the hubs? I swear 20 years ago I broke some studs and had to do it up front but the rears just lined up the splines and in they went. I don't know, it has been a long time
David
http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=571 If i don't get this car back on the road soon i'm gonna go postal! On a quest for FGF knowledge 1968 Pontiac Firebird Convertible 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S" Convertible *Sold*
After reading a few more threads I am trying to make sure I have the correct studs for the job.
I keep reading where there were changes in drum design in 68 and since my car is a Oct 68 car with a mixture of early parts. I see where some A-body guys are having trouble finding studs that have the correct shoulder and do not mic out to the correct design of the their drums.
My problem is (as always) that if I remove everything, making the car inoperable, and then find that it needs a hard to find part weeks out of deliver I am screwed.
If anyone has recently pulled one of these and has a source or part number it would be greatly appreciated. This is for the front but I would like to buy a few extra rear studs while I am there so both specs would be awesome.
Buy 10 new ones all the same size and replace them all.
I just went to NAPA, they looked up the size I needed and sold them to me.
Easy, peezie. No worries about any of the other nearly 50 year old studs breaking.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I agree with salmon38. Should be easily obtainable locally.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
Yup, NAPA is where I found all the studs I bought. Although the last time I was looking the ones I wanted were just in between and I had to settle. But it worked out pretty much. I have a bunch of extra sets around here. Tell me what size you need and I'll check to see if I have a set. Seems to me they go for about $20-$25 for two wheels new. Your welcome to the ones I have if they are the right size for you. Most of mine have been pressed in and out as well because I changed wheels and brakes setups a couple times in a short period of time and of course each time required a different size or length.
Yup, NAPA is where I found all the studs I bought. Although the last time I was looking the ones I wanted were just in between and I had to settle. But it worked out pretty much. I have a bunch of extra sets around here. Tell me what size you need and I'll check to see if I have a set. Seems to me they go for about $20-$25 for two wheels new. Your welcome to the ones I have if they are the right size for you. Most of mine have been pressed in and out as well because I changed wheels and brakes setups a couple times in a short period of time and of course each time required a different size or length.
Appreciate the offer! Would I be able to tell by just pulling a wheel/tire and not pounding one out?
Probably not. The new ones are probably going to have a slightly bigger shoulder size than your old ones because they will be a press fit. Wish I could remember(.469 seems to stick in my head for some reason) but I've replaced so many already and front and backs are different so there's no way I could be sure. I wanted to replace my back ones with 1/2" studs but the hole in the rotor was only like .490 so I had to settle for 7/16 in the closest length I could get..
I've got a friend here in the area that has agreed to help me get the busted ones out so I guess we will see then. I might go ahead and get 10 for the front as suggested and just hope they get it right.