The steering on my 1967 Firebird is very sloppy. I can turn the steering wheel an inch or more in either direction when I'm driving without the car moving to the left or right. It's not responsive at all. I've replaced the front springs, shocks, bushings and had it aligned and that didn't help the steering issue. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Could it be the steering box?
Agree. One of my 'birds is just like this. The steering boxes can be rebuilt though. There are a number of places that do them. Just check around witb your local auto parts places. Or just live with it like I do.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
I agree you probably have a bad box, but the truth is you can have slop in any of the steering components and they should all be checked. A little bit in each joint can add up to slop. Please also check the following (I know you mentioned you had an aligment, but depending on where you took it, they should have cheked these parts and not done the aligment if they were suspect, but that's not always the case)
Inner and outer tie rods Idler Arm Ball joints Drag Link Wheel Bearings Rag Joint
Last edited by daryl_keys; 09/16/1303:40 PM.
I know that washing and waxing my car with the present condtion of my paint is like polishing a turd.....but it's my turd and I want it polished!
There is no reason to guess on this, and potentially very expensive to do so. You can easily and difinitively trouble-shoot this with an assistant.
Have assistant turn the wheel back and forth an inch or two while you are inspecting the steering box. If wheel turns an inch either direction in conjunction with the input shaft (this rules out the rag joint), and the output shaft on the gear box does NOT move, then you answer is confirmed the slop is inside the gear box.
If indeed the output shaft is moving in conjunction with the turning of the input shaft, then the steering box is perfectly fine, and you just need to start looking further downstream at all of the steering linkage parts/ball joints/bearings daryl listed above and you will be able to see where the motion of the steering wheel is not continuing toward the wheels themselves.
Be aware you need to do this test while the wheels are supporting the weight of the car...so if no room to crawl under the car while it's down on the ground, you need to choose drive-on wheel ramps over jackstands for this type of test. Wheels might move freely and easily while just hanging in the air and may mask the slop. But if the wheels are weighted down it will reveal itself somewhere.
So far the ONLY part you replaced that has anything to do with steering at all is the bushings. And these rarely get sloppy enough to impact steering at all. Springs and shocks have nothing to contribute to steering slop, no matter how worn they might be. But Daryl's list above is where you really should be looking for steering slop problems, and if these are still original or old parts, I'd inspect every last one of them and might even consider just replacing them all.
A knowlegeable alignment person should do all this prior to an alignment and inform you of where the slop is. But as Daryl says there are less and less knowledgeable alignment people out there...
If you DO find any of these parts worn out, replace them, and take it to a DIFFERENT alignment guy after replacement to get the wheels lined up again...since your first guy is certainly not a good one.