Maybe you can save some of the braces? If they are tweaked too much during the disassembly they will be a bee hotch to re install to a new pan. I used a lot of wood blocks and a jack to squeeze the brace together to the floor for welding.
I spent yesterday with my trusty hammer and dolly working the inner tail brace back into shape where the car had a been bumped, luckily it came back together nicely where the gas tank brace was located.

The one I hoping to keep is the front brace (firewall to pan). Tied into a lot of places.

Have you heard of the new paint stripping method called "Dustless Media blasting"? Little pricey ...

I know which one. I had to remove one of them but I cut it at the firewall. After floor was welded in, I welded it back on to its other third and you can barely tell if at all.

Never heard of that method of blasting, but it's like a water jet. What if you have to do the inner doors? Then water gets everywhere? And yes it seems expensive from what I paid for my traditional method.

Interesting that they didn't appear to protect any of the chrome. Or did they assume it would be junked anyway?

Why not take the time to remove all chrome, emblems, etc to get ALL of the paint and bondo off? Seems kind of half-baked approach to me.

Think of all the small crevices that now need to be cleaned out that could have easily been removed with the blasting.

Makes you wonder if this was a short-order cleaning for free just to have the opportunity to film the process?

I'm sure it was staged for the video. You know how things go wrong on a regular basis. You wouldn't take a chance if it was a promo. I was kind of wondering about the chrome too. And what about the glass. Would it haze them where the jet happened to hit? Did he say they used glass beads with the water?

I think Soda blasting is the same in that you don't need to protect the chrome?

Would a high power soda blaster take off the paint like that?

Soda works as well but they are saying the Soda reacts with the metal and paint can come off whereas this product does not and it etches better. I think the soda issue is just poor prep by the painter.

I want to do my own blasting.

I thought the issue with soda blasting is that it left a trace film on the metal- not an actual reaction. I could be wrong on that though.

If so, I agree with the poor prep part.

Does anyone have a donor 68 vert that they still have a good piece just in front of the RH rocker where the fender bolts to the rocker?

I need to replace that piece and I need the hidden nut installed as well.

UPDATE

Anyone have any original vert body parts. Might need a piece of this and I piece of that.

Anyone (maybe Dynocon) have a lead to where I could get good inner rocker panels for a 68 vert? Pinch weld is too buggered to be worth patching and full rockers are big bucks.

Make sure you guys keep rodents out of your cars in winter. Rodents I figure buggered my floor pinch welds. I found yet another nest in the car.

Nest scoreboard:

1 in RH upper cowl
1 in lower RH cowl above rocker
1 in LH inner and 1 in outer LH rocker
1 in RH inner and 1 in outer RH rocker
nuts shells etc in front fenders

There are 3 horizontal paths in your vert rocker panels. I had to open them up on the ends (rear of the car) and cut open a hole in both fronts to locate and remove the nesting material. No way to remove the material without opening them open. You can image the condition the rockers are in now...swiss cheese. When the rockers plug up the ends of the rockers and entry into the rear window areas rust out.

I will post some pics next week. Finding this stuff is gratifying in that at least I know what the condition of every nook and cranny is and the potential crap that might not have been remove by the professionals.

Body panels on order:

complete floor pan with braces
LH toe board
RH toe board
LH, RH inner rockers
lower portion of RH INNER & OUTER cowl
patching

Ah, the joys... I hope all the WI rodents that made nests in my 4 speed decided to head to Canada for the winter.

I think we counted 14 or 15 nests in that car... Stunk like a %*^%&@%&&%!!!!

aww... can't we just have Justin back instead ?

Really enjoyed reading this thread. Where did you order your floor pan and braces from? What brand and why?

Did you end up welding in body bracing like the earlier pics? Did you take measurements before? I am curious as to how the bracing worked out. I am not able to use a rotisserie so I want to be able to get things solid before i start removing anything!! Look forward to your updates. thanks!

Here is a quick update...some pics later

As of last week I believe I have all the braces, patch panels etc. needed to complete the floor project. Rear end of car comes next (wheel wells, trunk etc.)

I got my parts from Early Birds Canada and DR Classic Automotive US.

Like these guys as they are small and generally price is better for shipping. I did a price comparison and they all come in around the same money even when you get a quote from Classic /w 20% off.

I tried to get US made panels where I could and the rest are anyone's guess. Dynacon, Tiawon?
For the most part it looks like they will work.

The small braces at the front under floor pan and firewall appear to look like they will fit. The sheet metal is not as thick though. However, it maybe a better grade steel (aluminized so less corrosion).

The inner rocker panels do not fit completely. I will use the very thick steel panel to patch my existing rocker.

Floor pan and vert braces appear to fit well.

I'm looking for some sand blaster equipment so I can fire it up and blast the underbody before I start welding.

Lost a month of time and $$$ due to an unforeseen car break down. Toyota wanted $2k ++ to fix alternator, replace fluids and replace rear shocks. Screw that ... I did it myself. I had to remove the whole front of the car to get at the alternator! Cost me only $200 to fix the existing alternator. Also put better parts in it and increased the AMP's. Then the water pump went 1 day after that. Rear diff leaking as well so there went another $1300. Looking at replacing the car!!

They make cars to hard to work on now... some days you want to get your hands on the guy who designed it!

Good to hear on the parts gathering!

Have you had to cut out your shifter hole, I just picked up a 68 vert in need of assembly, the floor pan that was installed is clean of any holes, I need to allow for auto console shifter and it has no console holes and shifter cable or shifter cable plate bolt holes. I am in need of a template or schematic.

Thanks

tony

Good luck with the install. I'm finally done with both floor/braces and trunk. Trunk took for ever, all butt welded in. Tons of welding/grinding/more welding/more grinding.

Take a look at the hockey stick braces. Mine had an extra rib bump where my original floor tapered to flat (before it had to clear the brace like the other ribs). Maybe the 68's are different, or the coupe has a rib continuation? I had to cut the rib in the hockey brace, dolly it flat, then reweld/grind. Viola, gone.

Quickie update: Daughter got married this summer so I have a son in-law now. Together we are putting humpty dumpty back together again. Floor pan is in, doing bracing now. Pics to come...

Where do I get the hidden nuts to tack under floor pan for console?

Thanks
Brian

They used Rivet Nuts for the console and the duel exhaust hanger for the passenger side.

Here is a kit that Firebird central has, or you can get your own rivet nut. http://www.firebirdcentral.com/1967_1969_Firebird_Console_Floor_Mounting_Set_p/con-57.htm

https://www.fastenal.com/products/fasteners/riveting-self-clinching-products/rivet-nuts;jsessionid=F1DE58A4FB6846A97B106FDB6271E210.jvm2?r=~%7Ccategoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl2:%22600191%20Riveting%209and%20Self-Clinching%20Products%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl3:%22602457%20Rivet%20Nuts%22%7C~


It takes the right tool to compress those. I tried making a tool but end up having to purchase one. Some info on my sight. http://www.firebird400ho.com/rivet-nuts/

I have 3 hidden nuts to put in correct?

Are they the same bolt size?

Two hidden ones on the console. They are the same.

I have been putting off this same thing. I don't want to mount/locate until I have the sub-frame back on and the transmission in place to be sure it's in the right location. That being said the Fastenal link shows 1/4 x 20 riv-nuts - is this the size? Mine were in the old floor and I had sheet metal screws in them from a former owner. I didn't pay extra for this feature...

I have seen templates for the console shifter hole, but I don't know if I trust them? What is out there if you don't have the frame/engine in the car?

I used the old pan as a template. I picked up the rev-nut from Edmonton. I brought the bolt with me to have the guy match it. I will let you know the size a little later.

Any updates?

Here are some pics...