Yo 'Vert Owners... are there any issues with leaving the top down for too long? eg excessive creasing, damage to rear window, etc
I have had it down since mid November... I got the boot on looking nice with all clips engaged, so not keen on putting the top up for another month or so.
Putting the boot on was an utter b*tch until I noted somewhere on the internet it's best to lie it in the sun for a while before fitting it.... but still time consuming to get it right.
If its clean and dry, I leave mine down for about a week at a time. The biggest issue is they tend to shrink when not up. So its always a pain stretching and clipping it shut after being down for more than a day or two. The new top on my 4 speed had to be put up every day or I couldn't get it shut. I can usually get the boot on or off in a couple of minutes. Maybe you just need a little more practice. I know some members here leave theirs down all summer. Mine would never shut if I did that.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
It depends upon the the thickness and quality of material that was used when it was installed. The old factory top would flop right into place but it was 27 years old and torn by then. The new top has been taken care of but shows a little bit of age there and there. It is still difficult to get it stretched closed and then the clamps must be fully extended form them to grab the notch. I did the same as you and had left the top down for quite some time with the boot attached. The plastic window developed a crease in one area that took some time to come out but now it is not visible.
Bjorn said that he used to place a soft terri cloth towel in the fold of the top when lowering it but I have not yet down this.
I've left mine down in the garage for months at a time, usually only put it up to wash the car, just make sure the window is clean and put a soft towel between the fold of the window when it's down.
mine was (car sold) the thinnest material I could get (so it would not build up too much under the parade boot) and I left it down all the time , only time it was up was if I got caught in rain , and then it stayed up until next drive, some times a week or two...when down it could stay down for months, never had a problem putting it back up, only that I had to really push the front down hard with arm/elbow to reach the clasp when not a hot day (hot days not a problem, winter months were) ...never had crease problems as it stretched fine. Always had a soft beach towel folded , placed over the plastic window when ftop was down
and one of the reasons (the main one actually) to leave top down was just as you said :"Putting the boot on was an utter b*tch "....
I was told by top installer to NEVER leave it down, and to always put it back up when your done driving it.
Of course he told me that when I went to see him the second time to get the side cables installed. By that time the top had been down for a whole month. It has a couple of wrinkles now on the sides that have yet to come out.
OK, here's fair warning - I left my top down in the garage one whole winter some years ago with the boot in place and a family of mice found that the folds of material made for a nice cozy home. Chewed away a big hole in the top liner. Never again.
so, if you leave top down with boot on , I suggest mouse bait traps...lol...
my installer told me also to not leave it down, I did anyway , never had a problem with wrinkles etc, but of course my top ONLY went up if/when caught in rain ,otherwise always down. But again , I had the thinnest material top you could buy.
When I first had my new top installed I would never put it in the garage without putting the top up. That lasted for probably the first year or so. Now I'm back to the way it was with the old top, (same as Bjorn) the top is down as long as it isn't raining. In winter storage the top is always up though. Yes, there are some wrinkels when the top is up but if it is up it must be raining so who cares. When I see a convertible with a perfect wrinkel free top my first thought is "bet that top never goes down". If that is the case, why buy a convertible?
LOL, most peiople who knew me didnt even think I GHAD a top, as they never saw it up....it was purely for rain...as Hank says if its rainy (and you only then drive with top up) who cares about a wrinkle , if theres one...as far as that is concerned I only bought a new top because the old was ripped badly when I bought the car..... Same with my Alfa now , top is "ok" doesnt leak, but is not 'good looking', but always stays down unless its raining. pic from last sunday, parked next to Andys 67 vert.
picture by previous owner, top up...he parked it with top up...but rear plastic was pretty brownish and scratched up...I polished it with a polishing kit from EBay...worked like a charm.....worst was inside...I think possibly one of previous owners (4 of them) was a smoker....so, in case you guys have a good top with bad plastic rear window ,that polishing kit is worth a try...I spent 30-40 minutes on it, did outside first , was not very happy , but after I did inside , it really got good....its not always outside thats bad. but again , that kit is worth a try...think I paid $15 +- for it ,shipped
picture by previous owner, top up...he parked it with top up...but rear plastic was pretty brownish and scratched up...I polished it with a polishing kit from EBay...worked like a charm.....worst was inside...I think possibly one of previous owners (4 of them) was a smoker....so, in case you guys have a good top with bad plastic rear window ,that polishing kit is worth a try...I spent 30-40 minutes on it, did outside first , was not very happy , but after I did inside , it really got good....its not always outside thats bad. but again , that kit is worth a try...think I paid $15 +- for it ,shipped
Looks good Bjorn, Meguiars Plast-X works good too.
Not that I don't trust you Bjorn but do you have a picture of the actual product? Will 2oz. be enough to do inside and out? I have been using Flitz which I use for many other polishing jobs but one of its primary uses is a plastic polish. ON the outside which shows the most (tarnish) I used a powerball which will get 90% of the material and the rest done by hand. Haven't done the inside just yet.
I didnt use all 2 oz., and did all mine by hand , used product sparingly , just like you would use Zaino..picture of product? you mean bottle or what comes out of it? No I didnt take one ,but can, I still have some left...one reason I picked this product was that it was 2 oz, many others sold you one. Wanted to be sure to have enough.