Before I open a can of worms, I wanted to run this by some folks on here. Many of you have much more experience than I do with Classic vehicles and restoration.
I have a 1968 Firebird convertible. I noticed the drive side door requires me to slam it to get it fully latched. Through investigating the body lines and geometry of the door I noticed that the windshield is actually slanted back about 3/4" more on the driver side than on the passenger side. I bought this car in a "show capable" condition but its not 100% restored. I'd say about 85% done. I'm trying to get everything straightened out like (date correct) interior and exterior details when I noticed this. its really visible when you stand in front of the car with the top up and latched. you can just follow the windshield line and see it gradually get smaller toward the driver side.
now, finally onto my question!
should I take this to a shop and have it adjusted hoping that when they remove the windshield i wont need to re-do the pillars or firewall? and then have them adjust the door obviously.
or should I just try a bottle jack between 2 wood blocks and "persuade" it into a visibly correct spot?
I drive this thing a lot. thats what I bought it for but this door thing is annoying me. i think if I move the pillar up that 3/4" i can mess with the door shims and probably get it to close right.
"you can just follow the windshield line and see it gradually get smaller toward the driver side. "
What does the window slant have to do with the door closure? There is a lot of pieces that could be adjusted.
How did you come to your 3/4 inch off measurement?
That window piller post is the toughest most solid piece in the car. Your not going to move it IMO with a bottle jack. Everyplace else on the car would start to give before that would. If you are correct about it being off I would wonder if it was due to damage or factory tolerance.
It may be worth your time to locate a competent old school body man for a second opinion.
And I was wondering if you have rust issues that causing the car to sag in the middle on one side. Which would most likely be a rocker panel issue with a 'vert.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
If the car was rolled or the whole windshield frame replaced, that could have happened. In either case, it looks like a bunch of messy work to redo that correctly. Yuck!
I agree with the other posts, Get another opinion and measure three times every which way to compare.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
Hard for me to believe the frame could be tweaked down that much on one side and you could still install the windshield. Those windshields do not flex much before snapping
Thanks for the input. it was definitely a garage restore DIY job. i can tell the door is shimmed for what i assume is the pillar being out of line.
Best way to describe it is if you were sitting in the car the driver side pillar is closer to you than the passenger side.
ive come to that conclusion by looking at where the vert. top meets the top of the windshield you can see there is less of the frame visible on the driver side once its clamped down also when I close my driver door and the window is up it hits the molding much higher. a previous owner has actually chipped the glass.
I doubt its a rust issue. the restore was fairly thorough i just think it was welded incorrectly or new reproduction sheet metal was put in and it came up short. either way, i agree it should go to a pro.
