Ok, so I'm planning on getting a new motor and building it up a bit. I'm after some opinions and things to think about while I'm building it, so PM me or reply here if you want. Here's the specs on what I want to do:
Is there anything else I should consider? For example, will I need guideplates for the pushrods? Are there better valve springs I should consider? Just looking for some info. Thanks guys!
You will need to open up the push rod holes in the heads for the 1.65 rockers.
You will need to rebuild your rods and install ARP rod bolts.
What kind of ignition system are you going to run? What kind of tranny is in your car? What is your gear ratio? Where are you going to drive it? (Street? Track?) Are you going to run on Pump gas? Or racing fuel?
I have an MSD ignition box under the hood already, so that isn't moving right away, though I may upgrade, not sure yet.
Muncie 4-spd, not sure if it's close ratio or not, have not run the codes yet, will be doing that this weekend when I get home (school sucks).
Can't find code on rear axle, so axle ratio is unknown at the moment, will also be attempting to find out this weekend. (car has been in storage all winter).
Planning on cruising on the street, probable bracket racing at the strip. Not going for crazy 9 sec. quarter miles, just respectable. Planning on running on pump gas.
if you look at axle from the rear ,the rear axle code should be stamped on it close to the leaf support on drivers side ,facing rear ( most likely) approx. 1/4" size letters.. you might have to sand lighty and wet it to see the letters...
Since you're in SE Michigan, you may want to talk to Banshee for your cylinder head work, and for recommendations on the rest of the components to support the heads.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
Speaking of Banshee, I'm actually talking with him to purchase the new motor. However, I'm a car FREAK so I intend on doing most of the work myself. However, thanks for the advice on asking him about my mods.
Talked with Banshee, he suggested TRW's .030 over piston kit to drop the compression just a bit and be able to run on something OTHER than 110 octane. Good idea, I'm going to look into that. Just an update.
FYI for those of you who are paying attention, spent yesterday and this morning pulling apart the front suspension, still have to get the lower control arms out to have the ball joints replaced, then I'll be putting it back together. Sometimes I hate working on things that havent been touched in at least 20 years, if not 30.
