Tubular is better as it allows you more improved camber curve and increased caster. I cant tell you if one is better then the other and I am sure someone will say that there is one better than another, but I would think you are getting what you pay for (well sometimes) I have some but I havent put them on yet so maybe someone who has used them and have them on can give you some info as to what may be better. I do think for the most part that they all do about the same thing in my first sentance.
Beware of some after market control arms use some odd ball joints and bushings that may be fun to find if you have to replace. Any good old school alignment guy should be able to give you good caster and camber set up.
I have Global West uppers and lowers and really like them.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
No idea. I only drove my car twice before I took it apart. I can tell you it was pretty sloppy with the worn out suspension in both the front and back.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I installed Speed Tech arms on my car. Never had it on the road with the old arms. Hope to get an alignment soon. The Speed Tech arms have some pretty good reviews at Pozzis sight. You can't go wrong with GW parts either. I noticed a big difference on my 2nd gen car after installing them. The delrin bushings alone made the arm travel nice and smooth with out the binding motion of rubber or poly.
X2, the springs determing ride height, not the control arms
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Height is determined by coil spring. You just need to ensure that you tighten the lock nuts on the cross shaft with the vehicle on the ground... I recently had this same discussion about tublar vs oem arms. I opted for hybrid setup I did stock arms with global west offset cross shafts. I did del-a-lum upper and lower bushings. This is a great set up for me. Quality tublar upper Arms will give you the positive caster you need but at a cost ($500+) the same can be done with $70 offset cross shafts and a good alignment. To get to 5* positive caster (ideal for street) you will need to shim the shaft. This can still be done with stock shafts but you will have a huge shim stack that, in my mind creates a weak leverage point. By adding the global west shaft you can put less shims in and get a tight ride feeling.
In my experience it's all about the alignment weather you go with a stock or modified set up. When the first gen ran down the assembly line she had 0*+Or- for caster. This created a bad bump steer issue, mix that with effortless steering it was a recipe of disaster. At the time this was normal and the standard, simply put you had to drive your car. That being said at least for me I have come to love positive road feel in today's cars and the increased cornering ability.
We're you planning on keeping her stock or going with a modified suspension set up cause now is the time.
Height is determined by coil spring. You just need to ensure that you tighten the lock nuts on the cross shaft with the vehicle on the ground... I recently had this same discussion about tublar vs oem arms. I opted for hybrid setup I did stock arms with global west offset cross shafts. I did del-a-lum upper and lower bushings. This is a great set up for me. Quality tublar upper Arms will give you the positive caster you need but at a cost ($500+) the same can be done with $70 offset cross shafts and a good alignment. To get to 5* positive caster (ideal for street) you will need to shim the shaft. This can still be done with stock shafts but you will have a huge shim stack that, in my mind creates a weak leverage point. By adding the global west shaft you can put less shims in and get a tight ride feeling.
In my experience it's all about the alignment weather you go with a stock or modified set up. When the first gen ran down the assembly line she had 0*+Or- for caster. This created a bad bump steer issue, mix that with effortless steering it was a recipe of disaster. At the time this was normal and the standard, simply put you had to drive your car. That being said at least for me I have come to love positive road feel in today's cars and the increased cornering ability.
We're you planning on keeping her stock or going with a modified suspension set up cause now is the time.
I agree with all of your above comments. I also did the hybrid upgrade on my second gen. I used stock arms with del-a-lum bushings and offset crossshafts. The bushings worked so well that I could torque them with no weight on the car. The arms had zero bind in them and moved up and down very smoothly. One of the best upgrades that I have done to any of my cars,
Height is determined by coil spring. You just need to ensure that you tighten the lock nuts on the cross shaft with the vehicle on the ground... I recently had this same discussion about tublar vs oem arms. I opted for hybrid setup I did stock arms with global west offset cross shafts. I did del-a-lum upper and lower bushings. This is a great set up for me. Quality tublar upper Arms will give you the positive caster you need but at a cost ($500+) the same can be done with $70 offset cross shafts and a good alignment. To get to 5* positive caster (ideal for street) you will need to shim the shaft. This can still be done with stock shafts but you will have a huge shim stack that, in my mind creates a weak leverage point. By adding the global west shaft you can put less shims in and get a tight ride feeling.
In my experience it's all about the alignment weather you go with a stock or modified set up. When the first gen ran down the assembly line she had 0*+Or- for caster. This created a bad bump steer issue, mix that with effortless steering it was a recipe of disaster. At the time this was normal and the standard, simply put you had to drive your car. That being said at least for me I have come to love positive road feel in today's cars and the increased cornering ability.
We're you planning on keeping her stock or going with a modified suspension set up cause now is the time.
Lots of good info Justin, but why do you say to make sure to tighten the locknuts on the cross shaft with the vehicle on the ground?
You do not ever want to torque your suspension down without the weight of the car on the suspension. The rubber bushings in the leafs and control arms actually bind when the suspension travels. When your car moves up and down the rubber bushings actually twist in their mount. If tightened with the car in the air the suspension is hanging, when you drop the car down to the ground the bushings already have a twist in them from the weight of the car. It also will not let the car sit at normal height due to the bushings already binding up.
Good to know info, Thanks for sharing that! So that means that when I attach all my control arms to my frame along with the springs and spindles, I should not tighten anything down correct? Can I torque the connection points on the spindle where the control arms connect to that? I am assuming also that I should not torque any of the bolts that mount the control arms to the frame also? I recall when I changed out my rearend and springs that I tightened everything up prior to putting the back of the car back on the ground. I didnt notice anything funny or different once the car was back on the ground, but I guess I should of put the car back on the ground before tightening the schakle bolts? What about the U bolt's? I cant recall if once the front leaf spring mount is bolted in the pocket if you can tighten that down after you bolt that to the car. Sorry so many different questions on that.
When you attach the upper control arms to the sub frame they should be tightened to spec. Shackles and front eyelet bolts on the rear are a flexible joint so Once loaded get out the toque wrench out and finalize. The u bolts on the rear don't ever twist so they should be tight before loading the suspension (putting it on the ground)... As a general rule of thumb If it pivots (other than ball joints) it should be torqued at static ride height. If you can envision when you car is on the lift all you suspension is at it's fullest extended state now by torquing the bolts it's freezing in that position. So when the car comes down the bushings are under undue stress (twist) and can wear prematurely or cause a higher ride height.
Thanks Justin, I now understand what you mean, but you said in your first sentance "When you attach the upper control arms to the sub frame they should be tightened to spec". Those are attached by the bolts and the lock nuts on the cross shaft, correct? And you said above on your post on the 17th to tighten those after the vehicle is setting on the ground. So I am unsure of which way is the correct way for that before or after on the ground?
