I just swapped my original BOP 8.2 for a GM 8.5. The 8.5 came from a 73 Nova. But I also swapped in a TH350 from a 78 Bandit Trans Am. The guy gave me his drive shaft, and guess what? It fits perfectly! One inch shorter! Which is what most people have found they need including me.

Now if you measure center to center on the u joints you will find it is too short, but look at this photo. The tip of the yokes are aligned, but the u joints are not. The second gen drive shaft on the right has more length to it before the slip portion of the yoke begins.

Center to center at the rear end in the second photo shows just slightly over one inch.

So before you go buying or modifying drive shafts, grab one from a second gen that had a TH350 transmission.

They fit!

Good info, thanks.
Did you have to modify the 8.5 in any way?
The spring perches the same width and depth, same distance center to center?
Brake backing plates same distance center to center?
After installed and the tires on, did it have the same track/same distance from center of tire to center of tire?

Nope did not have to modify the 8.5, it bolts right in. Spring perches are identical, but some Novas had single leaf, don't get those! the Nova rear end is exactly the same as a first gen Camaro 10 bolt rear. The Nova rear is 1 inch shorter in width, but I don't see a difference. I pulled the backing plates off the original rear and just bolted them back on to the Nova rear. They bolt right on, very easy! Here's a good link on 8.5 10 bolts http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=188370

If you use a later second gen driveshaft like I did, you will need a conversion u joint at the rear. the Precision U joint p/n is 372.
Wrong! The drive shaft I had was actually from a 73 FIrebird. I turns out that the read had a 1310 u joint and the front has the 3RL/S44. Weird, but that is what is in there now. Sorry for the confusion

Hey Kyle,

How is the easiest and quickest way to change out the rear end? I have a extra 68 ZM rear end with the correct 3.36 gear ratio and posi unit that I want t put under it in a few months. When I disassembled the car it was quite easy but now that it is together I don't want to remove the gas tanks and the springs.

I read about removing the backing plates and hang them, pull the axles, disconnect the brake line from the rear end, un-bolt from springs and driveshaft and then man handle it over the springs. Would it be easier to drop the front spring cups and lower the leaf springs to remove it.

Just looking for some ideas before starting the task.

I also need a brake link clip that get welded to the axle tube if someone has one.

Thanks

Hi Harold, I did it exactly as you described. I did not disconnect the springs. I jacked up the rear and put the front of the rear frame rails (near the front of the leaf spring) on jack stands.

it wasn't super easy, but I did it by myself. It is much easier with two I imagine! once the backing plates, axles and perch bolts are off you put a floor jack under the pumpkin raise it, and push it to one side to have the perches off to the side of the springs. Then pull the side that has the perch inside the springs so that it rotates towards the rear of the car. Then tilt that same side down and pull the other side out. The exhaust pipes might interfere a bit.

I hope that makes sense?

Perfect. Thanks.

Thanks for the info.
I have a 69 Camaro 8.2 10 bolt on mine now and it too is one inch narrower than the Pontiac 8.2.

A little update for everyone, I stated If you use a later second gen driveshaft like I did, you will need a conversion u joint at the rear. the Precision U joint p/n is 372.
Wrong! The drive shaft I had was actually from a 73 Firebird. I turns out that the rear has a 1310 u joint and the front has the 3RL/S44. Weird, but that is what is in there now. Sorry for the confusion.

So the 1310 is also the stock u joint for the early 8.5 inch rear end, very easy to find!

Now, my pinion yoke is worn, which is someting to look out for on 40 year old 10 bolts! It is out by .030!!! So the drive shaft was wobbling around in there. I found a temporary fix by using some shim material and checking the run out. I have 30 though of shims on one side of the u joint cap and it is going quite well. Summit will be delivering a new pinion yoke to me tomorrow.

I also need a brake link clip that get welded to the axle tube if someone has one.

Harold, I think this is what you are looking for?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-79-Rear-Axle-Weld-Brake-Line-Tabs-Judge-SS-W30-GS-I-/190555248624

This is exactly what I was looking for!

I've been hunting down a 8.5 10 bolt to swap into my '68, and finally found one after over 8 months of searching! I'm all for swapping in OEM parts, instead of custom ordering something, both for the ease of headaches when tracking down a shop for the project, as well as the lighter load on the wallet! I know a lot of people will say it's best to upgrade the driveshaft anyway, but it's always easier to sit behind a computer screen and spend other people's money. haha

How did you find that your pinion yoke was worn? Was there a vibration after installation? The rear end I got spent a number of years outside, so the tubes are pitted, and then a number of years in a shed. All in all, it probably hasn't seen use in around 15 or so years, doubt it'd be a smart idea to simply flush and fill the fluid, and throw it in my car!