What does everyone do to their car when you plan to stop driving it during the winter? I plan to store it in my insulated garage were temperatures should not be below 40 during January and February. It will be parked and covered for about 4 months.
I've read things that are good to do, just wondering what everyone actually does.
Put a can of seafoam in the tank, fill the tank as full as possible, clean and wrap her up in a nice car cover and tarp, disconnect the battery, and say 'OK to snow now". Change the oil right away in spring. Ideally it would be good to start her about once a month and let her get up to operating temps, but I don't have that luxury with a few of mine.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
Colder climates you should take battery out. You might want to get one off those car bags. Seals the car right up. Empty cardboard boxes placed in the car will absorb moisture trapped in car.
Oh, I forgot I also don't leave the floor mats lying on the carpet, and I lay about 8-10 bounce sheets in various places around the interior, engine, and trunk. I used to take the batteries out, but have had better luck leaving them in the past 6-7 years. Plus it saves on the wear and tear of my back. The guys that winterize my boats and jet skis say they don't even take batteries out of watercraft that are stored outside for the winter. I keep mine in the barn where my animals at least provide a little heat through the winter.
4 months should be a breeze. Sometimes it's 6-7 months around here. It makes it so much more fun when pulling the cars out in May verses those unlucky members that get to drive their cars all year round.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
I usually change my oil first thing in spring. I figure any possible separation or moisture will come out before cycling it through the engine. But after only 4 months I doubt anything would come of it. For me it's just more habit than anything.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
Oh, I forgot I also don't leave the floor mats lying on the carpet, and I lay about 8-10 bounce sheets in various places around the interior, engine, and trunk. I used to take the batteries out, but have had better luck leaving them in the past 6-7 years. Plus it saves on the wear and tear of my back. The guys that winterize my boats and jet skis say they don't even take batteries out of watercraft that are stored outside for the winter. I keep mine in the barn where my animals at least provide a little heat through the winter.
4 months should be a breeze. Sometimes it's 6-7 months around here. It makes it so much more fun when pulling the cars out in May verses those unlucky members that get to drive their cars all year round.
Your barn will be warm enough for the battery. Is it humid or dry in your barn? We get sustained cold temp below -35F. Weak batteries don't wake up in spring. Batteries typically last less than 5 years here ... except my JD battery. It was born in 2000 and still lives! Never jump started.
Your barn will be warm enough for the battery. Is it humid or dry in your barn? We get sustained cold temp below -35F. Weak batteries don't wake up in spring. Batteries typically last less than 5 years here ... except my JD battery. It was born in 2000 and still lives! Never jump started.
It's always very dry around here in winter. Especially in the barns. I was going on seven years with Scarlet's battery. I think it was a few years old when I bought her too. Finally replaced it last spring after some quirky starting issues. Turns out, that battery was on it's last legs after 10 years. The only batteries that never seem to last for me are on our PWC's. I think the wet environment in summer wipes those out after a couple of years. Even my boat batteries seem to last 5-7 years.
Our sustained cold seems to be in the range of ten to fifteen below. And that usually only lasts a couple of weeks. More normal is five to ten below. Sure beats those 30's and 40's in winter for those southern States! They don't get to experience our fun!
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
I just happen to hit my 500 miles on my rebuilt motor and I just changed it. Had to waste 6 qts of Brad Penn oil.
Moisture in your oil is acid on bearings. New engine I would drop the oil in Fall. Dry cold up here so not going to drop it in Spring.
500 mi 1st year on your engine is good but 1000 mi would be better. I doubt turning it on once a month over the winter would not be a good alternative to an additional 500 driving miles. My 1st rebuild failed just before 1000 mi. Your chances of failure is very low though. I was very impressed with your build. Well planned and executed and budget driven project. You need a healthy budget to get the project down right but just throwing money at it does not guarantee success.
Guys & Gals: Put something in your cars to keep rodents out in winter. The buggers caused a lot of damage to my car. What do you guys use? I've used moth balls in the past.
Same basic story here. Fill it up before putting it away. Put the fuel additive (I use Stabil) in the tank at the pump so the Stabil reaches the carb. I disconnect the battery but leave it in place. I try to start it once a month and let it reach normal temps. However, I do not drive it until after at least one strong rain storm to get the salt off the roads. Change the oil once a year, in the spring.
Four rodent kill boxes in it. Rat killer and moth balls outside around car. Keep it in rented storage unit up till this week with cover. I don't use plastic tarps in fear of trapping moisture but probly not a huge issue. Put card board slip sheets any where anything can fall on it. I have a write up somewhere on steps recommended for short and long term storage.
I just happen to hit my 500 miles on my rebuilt motor and I just changed it. Had to waste 6 qts of Brad Penn oil.
Moisture in your oil is acid on bearings. New engine I would drop the oil in Fall. Dry cold up here so not going to drop it in Spring.
500 mi 1st year on your engine is good but 1000 mi would be better. I doubt turning it on once a month over the winter would not be a good alternative to an additional 500 driving miles. My 1st rebuild failed just before 1000 mi. Your chances of failure is very low though. I was very impressed with your build. Well planned and executed and budget driven project. You need a healthy budget to get the project down right but just throwing money at it does not guarantee success.
Guys & Gals: Put something in your cars to keep rodents out in winter. The buggers caused a lot of damage to my car. What do you guys use? I've used moth balls in the past.
I have more like 700-800 on it now. My speedometer is off a little due to the wrong gears that was in it and it is showing 660.
I just happen to hit my 500 miles on my rebuilt motor and I just changed it. Had to waste 6 qts of Brad Penn oil.
Moisture in your oil is acid on bearings. New engine I would drop the oil in Fall. Dry cold up here so not going to drop it in Spring.
500 mi 1st year on your engine is good but 1000 mi would be better. I doubt turning it on once a month over the winter would not be a good alternative to an additional 500 driving miles. My 1st rebuild failed just before 1000 mi. Your chances of failure is very low though. I was very impressed with your build. Well planned and executed and budget driven project. You need a healthy budget to get the project down right but just throwing money at it does not guarantee success.
Guys & Gals: Put something in your cars to keep rodents out in winter. The buggers caused a lot of damage to my car. What do you guys use? I've used moth balls in the past.
I have more like 700-800 on it now. My speedometer is off a little due to the wrong gears that was in it and it is showing 660.
I heard dryer fabric sheets help with rodents.
cool! Those moth balls are brutal. Have to leave the windows open in spring for a week in the spring.
cool! Those moth balls are brutal. Have to leave the windows open in spring for a week in the spring.
That's why I use the Bounce sheets instead. Car smells fresh as a daisy in spring!
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
I just happen to hit my 500 miles on my rebuilt motor and I just changed it. Had to waste 6 qts of Brad Penn oil.
Leave the oil in it and you'll be just fine. I wouldn't use mouse/rat killer inside the car as they will eat it and crawl off to die inside your car somewhere = NASTY! I would use traps outside of the car at least that's what we did and found mouse/rats in them occasionally. FWIW we stored our Firebird for decades and have never had problems. Left the battery in it unplugged and never poured oil down the cylinders. If your were going over a year I would but you said only four months which isn't that long. My Firebird has its original engine that has never been apart and it does not burn oil.
I take the batt. out and put my bird in a bag and highly recommend it to anyone who is storing their car in unheated storage. I also recommend having 2 people to put car in as plastic bag is thick and easier to maneuver for 2 rather than 1.
Your car will be as clean when it comes out as when it went in plus, bag keeps rodents out and moisture out. Oh I'm sure rodents could chew threw it but for some reason they don't or haven't yet .
I am very new to this, but have gotten some advice recently from a mechanic with 40+ years of experience. He told me to forget the moth balls, and to put a few ceramic plates inside the car and trunk areas, and put several drops of 100% pure peppermint oil on each plate. He says rodents hate it even more than moth balls, and the car smells great in the spring...has anyone else heard of this? Let me know...thanks
Anyone have some info, like price and where to buy, one of those plastic car bags? I was thinking of trying one of those.
I always change the oil in fall before storing it. I figure it's better to have all that contamination drained out than sitting in the engine for 6-months.
-=>Lee<=- Due to budget constraints the "light at the end of the tunnel" has been turned off!
I add fuel stabilizer, let it run for a few minutes, make sure the car is topped up with coolant, then cover it with a car cover and a Carbag. There are about 10 bags of desiccant that I put in the car, trunk and underneath before zipping up the bag. I don't pull the battery, nor is the garage heated.
In the spring, I put the battery on a trickle charge to top it up and change the oil.
I always understood it was a good idea to change the oil just before storage to eliminate contaminants in the engine over the winter. I did not think it was necessary to then change it again in the spring. Is that correct?
To reduce moisture I park on top of old sheets of plywood, put a fan on a timer and take the floor mats out to try to keep the floor pan from staying damp.
I keep my garage at 50-55 all winter. Fill the tank, add some SeaFoam, hook up a battery tender. Put the convertible top up. Start it every couple weeks just to smell the lead additive... then drink a couple beers.
Couple years ago I was able to take a quick ride on Christmas day.
Change the oil right away in spring. Ideally it would be good to start her about once a month and let her get up to operating temps, but I don't have that luxury with a few of mine.
