Well after three years I finally attempted to fire up the bird for the first time. It wasn’t a total disaster, but it didn’t start. Let me tell you what I did:
- Primed the oil pump. - Set the timing mark on the flywheel to zero. - Took off the distributor cap and tried to align it to the #1 cylinder, but it would only point to #7 or #2. So I left it at #7. - Checked to make sure I had power to the distributor (GM HEI).
I verified that there was power at the pink HEI (GM) wire, but the timing light indicated that there was no spark (no flash) at the plug wire. Is that good way to verify spark? Any other suggestions? The only wire going to the HEI is the pink ignition wire. Does it need a ground or any other connection? This morning I read that sometimes the oil pump drive shaft can spin and may need to be “adjusted” with a screwdriver to get the distributor to point to the #1 cylinder. Do I have to worry about damaging anything if I manually spin it about 45 degrees?
Sorry about the basic questions but it is all new to me. I’m going to give it another shot this weekend if it isn’t raining. Thanks for any input, Ryan
Hey Ryan, You can spin it with a screwdriver with no problem. You could also move the plug wires all over one. Only one wire to HEI unless you count the tach wire that is not neccessary to start the car. Make sure the power source is still powered up while cranking. Some power sources cut out when you engage the starter. The timing light is a good test for spark as long as you are sure your timing light works. One thing that happens with sitting engines is the coil could go bad. That is usually the first place I go with no spark. Jim
Thanks, I thought it didn't matter where you started the plug wires (in the cap) as long as they were in the correct order, 1-8-3...etc.? The coil should be good it was freshly rebuilt.
You are right, you can put the plug wires anywhere on the cap, as long as they are in the right order and in the right direction. A Pontiac distributor spins counter-clockwise and the firing order is: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Pointing the rotor at the #1 cylinder is for an external reference, since you can't see the darn thing with the cap on.
Why didn't someone make a clear cap the first time? Then everyone else would have copied it, and we'd never wonder if we are getting spark or if the rotor's lined up. We could almost time the motor visually.
I do pretty much the same thing with a few exceptions
1. make sure your #1 piston is comming up on the compression stroke.
2. Then set the timming mark on 10 deg BTDC
3. set the distributor in (May need to adjust the oil pump) and line up #1 plug to be right on the top of the rotor. This will get you pretty close with the timming. 4. fill the carb with gass from the vent tube (you need to be creative hear, I use a rearend lube bottle to do this) 5.Make sure your not pluged into the Bat and not tac with the pink wire 6. I have alway just used the old screew drive in the sparkplug boot next to the block to check spark. 7.If your breaking in a new cam don't forget to follow the instructions and keep a garden hose close by to run over the radiator.
It does matter where you put the spark plug wires if you have the balancer at set at zero or TDC on compression stroke. Take the spark plug out of #1 cylinder and put a cork from a wine bottle in there (my favorite way). Crank the engine over until the cork shoots out and richochets all around the garage Then ease it over until you have balancer at zero. Then drop the distributor in so that the rotor is pointing right at the #1 terminal - which should be close to firewall towards driver. Spin it counter clock-wise a little bit and lock it down. Put your plug wires on starting with #1 in the correct order going counter clock-wise. Pour some gas down into carb primaries. Car should fire right up - never fails for me. For a 69 at least, you need to remove the black-pink wire coming from firewall with a non-resistance wire and hook it to Batt on HEI. Where are you getting power for the HEI?
Yeah, doesn't matter to the cap where you put the wires - only to the rotor That and the fact that you probably can't rotate the works 180 degrees without some interference.