My bird runs too hot if I'm in stop and go traffic. Anybody had any luck replacing stock fan with an electric one? As long as I'm moving, the temp is fine, I could probably drive across Death Valley in summertime, as long as I keep moving. I have a new 4 core radiator, 185' stat, 18" fan with shroud, and I don't want to spend $400-500 on an aluminum radiator. Thanks!
67BC - Do a search on this forum for overheating, hot, etc. There's PLENTY of info here.
I have a similar problem (mine is kinda hot all the time but no change in traffic.) With all the reading I've done it looks like your two fixes would be the baffle issue that Loren mentions and/or adding an electric fan.
if you do decide to go electric, get a fan that covers all the flews. and mount the thermo on the hose or some place that the air don't influence the heat reading. and, if you have a problem with afterboil, wire it direct to (+)pos- so it can keep cooling after you shut down.
if you go electric ,go a 'puller' ,not a 'pusher' fan , you`ll get more air thru the radiator...as for me I took my electiric help fan off (that former owner installed....it was a pusher , and was blocking more air than it helped..) Is it a 400 or a/c car? if so make sure you have all the fillers...( X fliiers, mastyicated, lower baffle) also could be a bad fan clutch if you have one... many things could be improved, the best is probably the water pump impeller spacing as Loren states...
I dealt with the impeller issue a while ago-thanks to this forum!! She's a 400 w/ac, but all the ac stuff is off (ac on a 'vert? what's the point?) No clutch fan, no lower baffle, but will those really help if I'm stuck in traffic, or at a light? I also run Water Wetter, that dropped my temps 12-15', worked great. Old Fart, can you elaborate?
The lower baffle will help. It helps guide the airflow through the radiator, rather than around it. Shroud, upper filler pieces, lower baffle, masticated fillers are all part of the package.
A/C on a 'vert is nice when not moving fast enough to make a breeze (cruises). I find that the clutch fan moves enough air for even low speed cooling on my 400.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Bjorn - This sounds silly but does the electric puller fan fit in front of the regular fan? Does the regular fan have to be pulled back? </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No, the electric puller fan would be in lieu of a regular fan... the push fan can be in conjunction...
I`ve seen dual puller fans (get more coverage) on some 455`s for better cooling
also, BlackCherry, nobody has so far asked how hot is it when you say it is too hot? how hot is it running in 'stop and go'....mine runs fine in stop and go, but if I have been travelling at 70-90 and come to a stop or slow traffic ,she`ll get up to about 220 for awhile , slowly creep down to 200, but will travel at 190..... ( I have not checked my w.p. impeller yet , may do in the future..but I do have all fillers...car did not come w the x fillers and was missing one masticated, after added them it went down 15 F...but I have since leaned out my carburator and that brought the temp up 7-10F again..) Also, you could be running lean and /or timing could be off...
Other than the lower baffle/valance, all other parts are there. She'll hit just below 230', but cools down instantly as soon as we get moving. Stop and go traffic kills her, but she could run from So Cal to Vegas in the middle of summer, as long as traffic is moving. I'm pretty sure the timing is fine, and the carb was just tweaked. The drive home today will tell...
A stock equipped and tuned car with all working parts should not overheat or need supplementary aftermarket stuff to cool it. If it is, something is not working properly or missing. In 36 years my 400HO with AC has overheated once. The thermostat had failed in the closed position.