So i finally got my right stuff detailing disc conversion installed, but I decided I would replace the brake lines as well. I was hoping maybe someone had some tips for getting the brake line that goes along the subframe from the passenger front to the master cylinder. The brake lines are all pre-bent, but i'm not sure if I should start feeding it down from the engine bay or if there is some other thing that will make this easier, besides pulling the motor. Any help or tips would be very welcome. Thanks,
That brake line you are referring to, goes between the two piece engine mounts on the subframe and even with the engine out, I could not run that pre-formed brake line throught those mounts. I had to remove the top plate and sit the brake line in there for it to work, so I would be calling you a miracle man if you can get it to work without lifting the engine up and taking the top plate off of the sub-frame engine mounts. Here is a pic to give you an idea how it is run. The thicker line is a gas line and the smaller line under it is the brake line that runs across and through the two sub-frame motor mounts. I dont believe there is anyway to wiggle that line through with an engine in there let alone without one in there.
NO... do not remove the lower part, that is even worse. The lower part of the mount is not only held in place by the bolts you see going through the upper half, but also by a big bolt that also holds the lower control arm in place to the sub-frame. If you remove that big lower bolt, then your back side control arm might come out . You can see item 17, that is the bottome part, and you can see item 13, 12, and 11 go through the front of the subfram through the rear control arm and through the bottom part of the engine mount. Much worse trying to remove that since it has a lot or pressure on it. best to either bypass that line and leave the old one in place untill you can get the engine up enough to unbolt the top piece and move it out of the way enough to place the brake line in there.
Roger that. I saw the A- Arm attachment last night and thought that I should leave that alone. My buddy has an engine hoist and some free time. Might just loosen the motor mounts and jack the motor up a few inches and see it that will do it. I have a hydraulic bottle jack too if the hoist is over kill. Wasn't too keen on supporting the engine by the pan and a block of wood.
I'm guessing I might have to pull the distributor if I have to move the engine more than a few inches. Hopefully I don't have to drop the driveshaft and tranny cross member? I think I remember an engine hoist loop on the front passenger side of the head. Any other places I should use to anchor the engine? My initial thought to just huck a chain around the intake is probably a bit too brash. Maybe try to do this by the books. Or manual rather.
Anything else I should do underneath there? Maybe run a new fuel line just because? New Oil pan gasket? Jesus, should have just left it drums and been cruising.
Yes, you might be able to get away with the block of wood like Jeff (Mr.Drivability) did his. I dont personally like doing that on the pan, but to each their own right? You only need enough room to slip that small tube in there so just unbolt the mounts and start raising the engine up a little at a time until you get the space you need to slide that brake line in there. It always starts as, I need to take care of this and it just starts snow balling...lol and you keep doing more. Thats why I am now doing a full restoration...lol Oh, and that pic of that frame isnt mine. I found that was a good example of where the line has to run through. This pic of the subframe is mine and here is where I am at with my restoration, waiting on the body shop. Engine is currently getting built and rear end and front subfram/suspension is completed. Good luck with replacing that brake line!
Yeah every good deed, turns into a huge job on this car. I definitely appreciate the engineering accomplishments we've made in the auto industry over the last 40 years. Like anything, some things are easier and some are harder.
She's pretty. I like the big brakes, tubular A arms, and that beef sway bar. Are those Camaro quarter panels? My car was painted some time in the 80's or early 90's and has Camaro quarters since I'm guessing Firebird restoration parts weren't as available. I like having a custom F-Bird.
I know what you mean. It has been totally easier to work on everything with the engine out and frame off...lol As far as I know they are not Camaro Q panels. I believe they are original and if the light was good on that rear side you would be able to see a lot of bondo on it...lol My car was built in Cali and stayed out there until Feb of 2010, and I have had it ever since in NC. So it was in really good shape as far as rust goes and the body guys that are going to do all the body work and paint said it was one of the best they have seen out here. They always have one classic that they are working on in their shop, so I am guessing they have seen a lot of them. They are actually working on a true 69 Trans Am right now, which has almost been a year next month that they started on it. they completly stripped it and replaced the rear half of the car and are almost ready to paint it and then have to completly reassemble it. So, I figure I have about another 4 to 6 months before they get my car in. Sry I got off on a tangent!
So with the help of one of my friends I finally managed to get the passenger side brake line routed. Ended up using a bottle jack on my oil pan and taking off the top part of the engine mounts like in #15 in USMC_Ordys picture. Jacked the motor up a few inches and also removed the rubber engine mounts as well so we could completely remove the mount plates. Tried running the prebent line, like the original lines and had no luck with getting the lines past the steering box and around the steering linkage. After a good bit of TETRIS like attempts of starting from here or there or routing up or down from the engine bay, my buddy who is apparently much smarter than me, suggested routing them in front of the steering box. Boom lined up perfect. Not sure if it is because the old lines were routed for manual drums and the new lines are for power, but they went in relatively easy after that. I mean after removing the fuel line and getting nearly 40 yrs of crap in my eyes despite my glasses. All said and done probably 3-4 hours (6 cold beers give or take). I didn't have the heart to soldier on with the back line, since we were both pretty tired, the mercury was well above 90, and in reality the back ones look pretty straight forward. So another weekend without brakes, but I'm closer. The struggle is real!
