Going to look at a 67 in next couple of days, a 8 hour drive.
This will be my first vintage car.
From pictures and videos car looks and sounds good.
Engine rebuilt 5000 miles ago, paint is 20 years old.
Looking for some tips what I should check for.
Any comments greatly appreciated!

It will be a driver, but want to be sure to look at usual/ common problems.

Thanks,
John

Can't believe nobody has responded to your thread yet. So, I'll give it a shot. The main item is always to check for rust and rusted out body panels that have been replaced or repaired. Floors, trunks, rear quarters, and rear frame rails are parts that usually show rust damage first.

If the owner is asking a high price, claiming a numbers matching car, then you should check all the numbers you can, to see how many actually match. If it's not a matching numbers car, check out the engine. You typed "...400??????". So, if it's an original 400 car it will obviously have a 400 hood, with the twin scoops. And I think they had a Pontiac arrowhead in the center of the front bumper. But 400 stuff can be bolted on. You'll have to get the VIN # and the info off the cowl tag and possibly get a PHS report on it to find out exactly how the car was equipped from the factory.

Whether or not it is a real 400 Bird, it can have all sorts of exterior, interior and mechanical parts that were not original factory items, such as the entire drive train and cooling system. A couple of the real popular items are the Camaro front and rear deck spoilers. Aftermarket steering wheels are popular, as are aftermarket seats, shifters, and wheels.

Saying a motor was rebuilt, means absolutely nothing. Rebuilt means different things to different people. It may have been done by someone who knew very little about a Pontiac engine. The very cheapest parts available may have been used, such as the 8-eyebrow pistons and the stock cast rods. Or, it may have the original pistons with fresh rings and bearings. And since most Pontiac V8's look very similar from the outside, you must check the block casting number and head numbers, to even know what block and heads is has, much less what parts are inside. When buying, I would always assume that the engine will probably need rebuilding or replacing immediately or at least very soon.

MOST sellers always ask more for a car than it's worth, and more than they really expect to get. So, if they really wanna sell it, they will always take less than the asking price. Most of the time it's sorta like buying a used house. The buyer has an asking price. You go thru a realtor and make a lower counter offer. Then the seller comes back with a slightly lower price, but higher than your offer. Then it continues this way until a price, somewhere in the middle is agreed upon, or there is a no sale.

I have run across a VERY FEW guys who set a firm price and would not budge off of it. Most of the time, but not always, the car is not worth quite as much as the asking price. Many times guys really don't wanna sell the car, but will sell, if they can find somebody willing to pay their high price. And if they have a nice car, there are usually a few people around with plenty of spare $ to buy the car and really don't care if it's overpriced or not. Hey, this is just the way things are. There are not many bargains today, on 1st gen Birds, because so many people know what they are worth. But if you can find a good clean car, for a reasonable price, you should be able to get pretty near what you pay, when you decide to sell.--NO GUARANTEES !

The '67 cowl tags contain info on some options. If possible, get a picture of it before you go and decode it here. Look under the 1967 section before you get into the forums.

The drive to get there is considerable, I would want to see probably a hundred photos including many with the car on a lift. Rust and rot can still be hidden by artful picture taking, but it will still give you a better idea of what you are walking into.

What state are you looking?

I can go over quite a bit on the phone if you are willing to call and write it down. If owned 15 67/68 Firebirds..and I inspect and document them for authenticity for potential buyers pre sale.

You can also call while there and send me pics via email or phone if you have any issues. I can tell you with a high degree of certainty from good pics what you have...only thing I can't tell well from pics is bondo or other body fillers....and engine condition.

Make sure engine wasn't warmed up before you get there...

Man....too much to type...just call me with your specifics...or just call and let me rant.

Pretty fluent in the what to look for scheme of things.

I sent a PM with my number..

Tom

I noted that no one yet has mentioned the '67 only "3F" code on the cowl tag that documents the 400 option from the factory.

Always has to be one wiseass in the bunch...

I was gentle about it

For a 400 clone amateurs always seem to miss the 'hockey sticks" in the grill. Clone giveaway.

Well?

It's been a week abouts and no updates?

Thanks for all the tips!
I did buy this car! And love it!
Will get to know lots about 67's I'm sure.
It's in great shape.

Good to hear!! You have a good bunch of guys on this thread that have years of exp. on these killer cars, best site for birds and bullshit by far!!
Btw, Banshee is really good at identifying numbers match items- if he offers take him up..

I drove about 6 hours to get my Firebird! Any pics? Can you tell us a bit about the experience? Buying an old car always seems to be an adventure.