Hi all, Trying to get some info on a good replacement distributor. Looking to get away from the points. It's for a 69 pontiac 350.

I like using a GM HEI unit with a Super Coil on top.
Jim

You can also look into the Mallory Unilite with their ProSeries coil. I've had good success with that combination.

A month ago I stuck in a stock distrib with Unilite conversion and ProSeries coil I got off e-bay. Seems to be working great. GM HEI's are a tight fit.

I have a 1/2 inch to spare on my GM HEI. The Super Coil cuts the gap down to 1/4 inch. If it's tighter than that it may be an indication of loose rear sub-frame mounts. One good thing with the HEI compared to points is they can use the full charge from the alternator where points are limited to 12 volts.
Jim

I'm pleased with a Pertronix Ignitor in a stock distributor.

Quenton, Do you have a favorite place localy to buy the Mallory? I might try the Pertronix first. Not sure yet.I think Classic has them and I'm going to be down there later this week. Finaly got some plates on it and drove it this passed weekend. Still got alot of work to do but got a lot of thumbs ups. Looks like I'm running rich on the right bank and I'm getting a miss fire so I want to try and get a distributor this week so I can work on it this weekend.

I usually get stuff like that from Summit, since their prices are reasonable and they offer free shipping. eBay is also another place, but just be careful. Check out the sellers before you part with your hard-earned cash.

In your area, I HIGHLY recommend Jim Grubb's Motorsports. They are the best machine shop I have ever run across, and are very knowledgeable and very open to sharing their knowledge. They can track down anything you'd need, but you'll probably pay a little more for it to get it through them.

There is a decent racing shop in Simi Valley, but they are not dedicated to Pontiac, so getting anything in a hurry (or getting good advice from them) isn't going to happen. But they can be useful for generic stuff like braided steel lines, Holley carbs and fittings.

1st off, I love my Unilite in my 4X4 and will get one for my 'Bird

HOWEVER, I have learned 3 things about them that I consider a MUST:

1) get the little inline "filter" from Mallory. Any small voltage spikes in your "hot" wire will eventually fry the module

2) Get the ceramic insulator regardless of the voltage of your "hot" wire. Mine was in the correct range (6 volts) and I still burned out the electronic module.

3) buy a spare electronic module. If it ever burns out, you are completely dead unless you replace either it or the distributor.

HOW do I know?

1) I shorted the distributor to the block trying to get it installed on the right gear tooth. Summit replace the module.

2) My truck died a couple of weeks later. Fried another module. Mallory recommended the filter and the resistor despite my voltage readings. I payed for that one and was problem free for many years.

3) My coil got loose (hey, I really get out there on the trails) and grounded against the distributor body. Yep, another $90 module. Luckily I was 3 blocks from home. However, borrowing another truck so I could get the boat back into the backyard was a real pain.

No kidding on the module. I have two ballast resistors and the filter. I got another Unilte for free from a guy who thought it was junk. With a new $90 module, it fired right up. That one I keep as a spare in the trunk with a different set of advance springs on it in case I can only find 89 octane.

The filter your talking about. is that the one that goes to the altinator lead?

Check out www.davessmallbodyheis.com

I had a "normal" HEI in my '67, but I know it was contacting the firewall under full throttle, and that was screwing my timing up, and wearing out the distributor. Installing one of Dave's conversions has been some of the best-spent money for my car.

Dave's conversions are MUCH more reliable than either Unilite or Pertronix, and are designed to operate at full voltage (like an HEI should).

I'm using the version that triggers an MSD box, but I've installed the version that uses GM HEI modules on several cars for others, and they work great as well.

The Unilite puts the full 12V to the coil like the HEI. The ballast resistors are for the electronics module that wants to run at 9 V.

If the system is wired correctly, the Unilite is virtually fool proof.

It's also SMALLER than a points distributor.

Hey Bhiggins, the filter is Summit part# MAA-29351. It plugs in between the 3-lead connector. I need to get me one...

"The Unilite puts the full 12V to the coil like the HEI. The ballast resistors are for the electronics module that wants to run at 9 V." - Not according to their directions. See link.


http://www.centuryperformance.com/images/mallory/mal_dia2.jpg

BTW, I have a Unilite in my Oldsmobile. I installed it nearly 20 years ago, and it still operates flawlessly. I converted several distribitors to Unilite, before I found Dave's conversions. The Unilite is good, but Dave has a better product.

Lee

Yes, that particular diagram does show the voltage chopped at the coil. I believe there are about 6 different wiring diagrams for the Unilite/ProSeries installation. The diagram I followed was slightly different. That one is probably for GM cars, though, so I guess it could be done either way.

I've got mine hooked up with the stock resistance wire (and the wire from the starter solonoid) and ballast resistor. When I searched for guidance on how to hook it up, I found conflicting information. One school was that you only use the ballast resistor when it's hooked directly to the 12V. Other info, including the guy I bought it from, said to use the ballast resistor and the resistance wire. Seems to work great that way.

The unilite in my brother's Pantera was hooked to straight 12V when he bought the car. It didn't last long.

That's what is nice about the HEI, you can use up to 24 volts that will be produced by your alternator. The more volts the better.
Jim

The Unilite module fries at 12V after a very short time. The coil is another matter.

Thanks guy. Got a Pertronix from Classic cuas I was there and they had one. Talked to there tech guy and he said all I had to worry about was getting the gap right. I put it in late last night. I'll get the distributor back in this weekend and let you know how it works. The instructions show to test the voltage to the coil and depending on your aplication make sure that you have a full 12v. If not then you may need to remove the resitor if it has one. I have not tested it yet but I think I don't. I'll let you know if it fires. Thanks for all the info as always. Thats what makes this form great.

I had to remove the calibrated resistance wire, and replace it with a regular wire. It's the pink wire going from the fuse block to the coil.

"I had to remove the calibrated resistance wire, and replace it with a regular wire. It's the pink wire going from the fuse block to the coil."

What year was yours? I just have the positive comming from the ignition going to the coil as well as from the coil to the aftermarket ( Eldibrock) electric choke.

It's a 1969. (with a 1968 engine) The wiring schematic in the shop manual calls the wire I'm talking about BLK-PURPLE. I think we're talking about the same wire. It goes from the big connector in the firewall to the coil +. I replaced it with a regular wire and also attached the red wire on the Pertronix Ignitor to the coil +.

Don't forget to turn the key to RUN for about five seconds before starting the car. It makes a difference. When I try to start it like a modern car it doesn't fire.