What is the approx. number of quarts of Dexron needed for a freshly rebuilt TH400? We have about 1 qt. in the converter. How much do we need to have on hand for startup and fill?

Is about 6 qt. OK for initial fill--adding more after startup?

Capacities

Thanks, Jimc2002,

Looks like initial fill of 8 qt. and total of 10 qt. is close.

We tried last night to install the rear window/quarter panels inside. They are PUI assembled panels.

When hung on the inner edge of the window channel, there is no room for the window to pass by. Also, the contour of the metal shell does not match the inner quarter window panel.

Has anyone experienced this? Solution? I called Ames and they want pictures, which I will send, and will replace the panels if necessary. I'm not optimistic replacements would fit.

Anybody have better luck with these panels?

I'm checking out the electrical devices before we further assemble the front end. Everything works fine except the wipers. The car has two speed wiper/washers.

If I hold the washer button in, wipers will run in either speed selected. When I let go, they stop. They will not run except in the washer mode.

If I ground the black/blue stripe terminal on the wiper motor, the wipers run and don't stop until the ground is removed.

Any ideas?

Problem with wipers was the switch. There was no ground path through the switch. I disassembled the switch and cleaned contacts and the two brass tabs that provide electrical ground through the switch body. This cured the problem.

Had this car not been an A/C car, I don't know how one would remove that switch. As it was, I removed the left dash A/C outlet and reached the switch through that hole.

As most of you know, the nut that secures the light swtich and wiper switch to the dash needs a special driver to remove it. I made one using an old 12 mm socket by grinding the face of the socket to create two tabs that engage the slots in the nut.

E-Brake light, and one directional arrow didn't work. E-Brake problem was sticky switch. Directional arrow light needed cleaning and bending the tabs on the printed circuit board under the dash. Oil warning light works fine.

I cannot get the coolant temperature light to go on. I believe coolant temperature is the green wire in the headlight harness. Grounding it should turn on the light, but it doesn't. I can see it goes through the firewall plug, then under the dash. Anyone know the color of the wire as it goes from the firewall to the PC board? The diagrams I have do not show this.

Also, how is the harness routed to the alternator and the temperature sending unit on the driver's side of the engine?

Temperature light problem was also due to the bulb holder on the PC board. The bulb was not contacting the brass tabs in the holder. I tried a different bulb and all is OK.

Checked GEN light operation by grounding the brown wire from the regulator plug. Light comes on when this wire is grounded.

I'm pleased these problems were found and corrected before getting the car running--much easier to get at the wires now.

Next step, I need to provide +12 volts switched by the ignition switch to the MSD system. I see there is a tab near the center of the fuse panel that does switch on and off with the ignition. I don't think there is a +12 source switched by ignition in the engine compartment, so will have to run a wire through the firewall. I believe #16 wire should be adequate for this.

Also need +12 for the hood tach light, also switched by the ignition switch--probably can use the same source since I need to run a wire for the tach signal from the MSD box, also.

Called MSD. The 6AL system we're using does not need a full 12 volts for the switched signal wire. It's OK to use the factory resistance coil wire. The full 12 volts is a separate 12 gage wire directly from the battery.

I need the routing of the kickdown solenoid wire from the firewall to the transmission plug. Right now, it's lying on the top of the transmission case with no clips. Anybody have a suggestion on how it should be routed/secured?

We're trying to decide whether or not to use fender shields and A-arm shields. The inners are new and have no staple holes. We are using chromed upper A-arm shafts. Tempted to go without shields considering how this car will seldom be driven in rain.

What do you think?

On the other site you mention you have the original panels. Could you use the original metal and recover them? On my deluxe panal a that is what I did.

Yes, we may do that if the replacements from Ames don't fit correctly. My only concern is how to secure the rubber window sweep to the old panel. Staples are not likely possible, but maybe pop-rivets if we go that way.

I'll report next week on the fit of the replacement PUI panels from Ames.

Can anyone tell me where the harness for the hood tach plugs in for the light? There is a plug on the harness that piggybacks a plug somewhere in the vicinity of the wiper motor, but it won't fit where there is constant +12 volts on the wiper motor.

This topic has been discussed many times here. At the bottom of the page is a search box that is easy to use. I keyed in hood tach and recieved many topics.

Here is one for instance
https://firstgenfirebird.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=228927

There is also a section on the hood tach in the last chapter of the service manual.

Couldn't find the info in the search mode, but he Service Manual page on tachs showed the proper connection for the tach light. It's on the fuse block labeled "LMP." You do, however, have to take off the plastic cover off the plug to get the wire through the firewall.

Thanks, this will work out just fine.

Replacement rear interior panels from PUI do not fit. The bend in the sheet metal on the original pieces is 2 1/4" from the window sweep is 3 1/4" on the repro panels. We decided to peel the vinyl off the repros and put it on the original pieces.

We peeled the vinyl off the repro and glued it on the original panel--driver's side only--the other side fits OK. FIt of the original is perfect and it looks like we're professionals. I'll call Ames tomorrow to find out what to do about the fit problem and return of the defective pieces.

The hard part was installing the staples that hold the window sweep on the metal panel. We used a 1/16" drill through the original staple holes and installed the staples, bent them with a Vicegrips. I wish we'd have done that from the start.

We also discovered that the repro window crank handles are not offset from the panel as much as the originals, so they hit on the metal trim bar. We need to fix that problem with different crank handles--originals work fine, but we want black knobs. The ones we bought were from Classic Headquarters---W926.

Here's a video of the startup on 8-30-15. It's a Butler 467 cu. in. rotating assy. in a 1972 455 block with Lunati Voodoo hydraulic roller cam, Edlebrock round-port heads, Doug's headers, MSD, Champion aluminum radiator, Flexcool '69 water pump, TH400.

We're running a '66 Tripower on the repro '66 intake. Startup was done with the center carb only--end carb locations blocked off.

http://youtu.be/8WtdTVd81T8

Engine fired on first revolution. We set initial timing to 16 degrees with 34 degrees total. Idles well at 750 rpm.

The outlet line on the heater core solder joint failed so we took the core out and re-soldered the line. The factory solder joint was not good, but we got good flow and it's now secure. Not too bad a job without front fenders!

I'll post more pictures when we mount the other carbs.

Can anyone provide pictures of TH400 vacuum modulator line routing?

How about the routing of the downshift solenoid wire? How is it secured over the top of the transmission? I've got the downshift switch mounted on the intake manifold, and the wires from the engine harness fit it nicely. The black wire that goes to the trans, however is just lying on the top of the transmission.

I don't have a picture but I remember a white plastic clip held on by a single screw. The wire should go through that clip.

Was the clip attached to the body or to the transmission/engine?

And, for the headlight/parking light/alternator harness on the driver's side--there are two plastic tabs to support that harness between the inner and outer fenders. Do the tabs go into holes in the edge of the outer fender or are there holes in the inner fender to insert the tabs to hold that harness? We have new inner fenders, so I can't tell where those plastic tabs were inserted, but I noticed that there are holes through the edge of the outer fender (one near the hood hinge bolt and one 6" ahead of the front bolt that attaches the inner and outer together) that look like they are for that purpose. I'll post pictures if necessary.

Test fitted carbs, Ram Air pan, inner fenders, and finished troubleshooting the wiring so everything now works. We left the idiot lights functional, but added an oil pressure gage with the sensor in the gallery next to the distributor.

With the Tripower and TH400, it's really tight with the kickdown switch mounted in the stock location. It looks like I'll have to set the mechanical linkage up like the '66 Olds with the slotted actuating rod going to the front carb. I'll still be able to use all factory parts, however.

Here are some pictures of the work in progress.

Great job, I like the tri-power setup.

They wiring harness tabs go into holes in the edge of the outer fender.

Looks like it going to be a nice looking engine compartment.

Thanks for the answer on the wire harness routing. I think we'll do the same on the passenger side with the MSD harness--securing it with straps/holes in the outer fender so it's out of sight.

I'm pleased the '66 GTO Ram Air carb pan and the Firebird hood pan end up at the right height to make this setup ideal for the Firebird. The only mod needed is to narrow the hole (circle) in the hood pan as it is wider than the '66 GTO carb pan--only by about 1 1/4" on each side.

It's really tricky, however, to get the mechanical Tripower linkage tucked in with the TH400 kickdown switch. Looks like it will work, though. I may have to use the '66 Olds slotted rod operating the front carb instead of fighting with lack of clearance between the kickdown switch and the throttle cable tower.

Do the transmission cooling lines have a clip to hold them to the frame crossmember? If so, where can I get a clip or clamp to fasten them?

If they're attached to the frame, there would be movement there so some type of insulation (rubber?) would be needed to allow movement without abrasion.

We tweaked the Tripower linkage; vacuum for the trans, heater controls, and power brakes; bent a transmission vacuum modulator line, fit the carpeting, finished the rear quarter panel trim around the door jambs.

I modified the idle circuit further in the the center carb to work better with the Lunati cam. We had nozzle drip at idle before the mods, but we're still more than 4 turns out on the idle adj. screws. I used throttle plates with holes in the center carb only like the factory did on automatic cars. Engine idles at about 700 rpm with 15" vacuum, but is very lopey.

Here's how I finally fitted mechanical linkage and fuel lines.

Because of the kickdown switch, there is no room for the slotted rod and lever on the rear carb, so I reversed the carbs and ran the slotted rod to the front carb. A lot of tweaking was needed with the throttle cable tower to get full throttle opening, but we finally got it exactly right!

The Ram Air pan would not clear the special fuel fitting for the front carb fuel block, so I ran the '64/'65 style 3/8" fuel line with the distribution block turned upside down compared to the '66 Tripowers. It makes access to the fuel filter more difficult, but that won't be changed more than every few years anyhow.

Had one hiccup with the rear carb needle sticking, but a sharp tap with a screwdriver handle fixed that. Idles really well at about 700 rpm with 15" vacuum. Power brakes should work fine.

Balanced driveshaft ready to install. I painted it with Rust-O-Leum stainless wheel paint. Finally, we'll be able to move the car under its own power.

Here's the back seat, trim installed. We are waiting to put the front buckets in until we get the antenna wire from Ames. It's a lot easier to get under the dash without the seats in place.

The clip was on the passenger side of the transmission.

Driveshaft in!! It moves under it's own power--first time in 28 years!! Now, for the finishing touches under the hood so we can put the front sheet metal on.

Robert--Kickdown wire clip attached to the trans or to the body?

We did really well this weekend. Got the Flowmaster X pipe 3" system in place--ready for welding to header extensions. Trying to decide whether to leave the tailpipes as shown on the picture or add splitters. There is very little room between the body and leaf springs for the 4" pipes---3/8" max on each side of the pipe. The splitters would give us more "wiggle room." For you that have installed aftermarket exhaust, what do you do with the e-brake cable where it crosses over the X pipe?

Got the interior done, including the seat belts from Ames( awesome factory duplicates, but the anchor holes are .500" instead of .560" to accept factory bolts.

Front fenders and bumper nearly ready to install.

Sorry, I can't get these pictures to post upright. They are correct on my computer screen but when posting, they're upside down. I tried inverting them in my picture files and they still post upside down. Sorry.

How can I paint/protect the door hinge bolts from rust--and make them look decent? They are 5/16" hex head bolts with integral washers, but not painted or plated. I've considered removing half of them, plating black zinc or black oxide treatment and re-installing--then removing the other half and treating them. Best solution would be body color for all the bolts, but short of a paint brush and a lot of patience, I don't know how to do that.

Any ideas?

First of all I would apply a generous amount of lithium grease to the threads, as for the head you have a few options. Stock was the "zink" steel color...you can get a small touch up paint brush and brush the heads a zink or body color. You can also brush clear coat on them. All depends what you're after...stock, rust prevention, looks... They are not very visible so unless you're building a show car, I would recommend using the body color.

You're saying that the hinge bolts were not body color off the assy. line? I thought they were body color like on the GTO's. If they were zinc plated, I'll remove them as described above and get half of them plated and do the other half when re-installing the plated ones.

I think the doors were painted off the car before assy line install, which would indicated the bolts were unpainted. Maybe someone else can confirm.

Hinge bolts were body color. You can stick them in a cardboard lid. Spay with a paint gun.

If It was me and I left those pipes, I would cut the end on the angle on the quarter panel. Like the factory were. They were also squeezed in to make it slimmer and more oval at the end.

If you used the factory style extension they might not fit a 4" pipe.

I agree with Harold.