I am going to replace the original power steering assembly after years of putting up with a slow fluid seep from the upper seal. Repair Manual appears to show this being a pretty straight-forward project, but I'd love to hear any comments/recommendations from you all. The Rag-Joint is original as well and covered in oily grime, so I'll be replacing that too. Pump and hoses are only a few years old so they'll stay. I am pulling the old one out tonight.

Might as well upgrade while you're at it. Seems like the parts houses carry faster ratio boxes for around $150. Make sure you get one with the same turning radius though.

Will do, Bob. I started pulling the assembly out tonight and am now wondering if I can get it out past the Hedman Headers....looks like a tight fit indeed. Need to rent a Pittman Arm Puller for sure. Nothings ever been easy with this Bird of mine.....

Some steering boxes have more degrees of travel than others?
Are there any with adjustable internal travel stops?

Not sure, Al. The Classic Parts book shows 2, possibly 3 that would fit my car with varying turn ratios. What I AM sure of is the Hedman Header is going to have to come out in order to get the steering assembly out. Won't come "up" through the engine compartment, won't come out from below either due to the header. That's OK, the header gasket could use a replacement.

That's the trouble with headers, clearance. I had to slightly bash my #5 tube to clear the steering box.

Rag-joint? that's a new one for me. I'll be looking at that one next time under the hood.

Bill V

You have a Rag-Joint, my friend, trust me. Better get to know it soon.

All, I was amazed to find out that I could indeed pull the Power Steering assembly out through the top, once the header bolts were removed and the header had some movement. Did that tonight and removed the oily, nasty PS component from the Bird. That removal has exposed a hard-to-get-at area on the drivers side below the master cylinder/booster that is truly a horrid area full of grease and dirt, bolts and washers, a few sockets, etc, that fall down into that area and don't come out. Having a blast here, sports fans.

Mine is leaking too. Was thinking of just replacing it. Where did you get your? Which one did you go with?

If you find a Snap-on 1/4" drive deep 5/16 socket, I claim it.

DanMC9, I ordered the #P18502 out of Classic Industries, as well as the new rag-joint assembly. If you do decide to replace yours get in contact with me so I can share all my "Lessons Learned" with you.

Folks, all the new parts are installed, to include new PS Gearbox, PS hoses, upper control arms, new Pittman Arm, ALL Ball Joints,etc............but I have one problem. Drivers side upper ball-joint rotates when I try and tighten the nut. New Nut gets about half-way up the threads and then the ball joint rotates with the nut, not allowing me to torque and install the cotter pin. Any suggestions or tricks? I'm stuck at this final step.

Ah, I just Googled it and saw a few tricks to getting the ball joint stud to sit tight while you torque the nut. I'll try the pry-bar technique first.

The Pry Bar worked like a charm. Last nut is torqued and keyed. Will push her out of the garage into the driveway tomorrow and bleed the PS system, get all the air out, let all the grease and oils burn off the drivers side header. That header has a new and expensive gasket on her, should last for many years.

UPDATE: Everything works, she drives and steers VERY smoothly now. No vibrations up to 90 MPH; used to rattle and roll before this front-end overhaul. Thanks for all the help and guidance, friends.

Still at it, aye buddy?!

I got to come bother you soon. Need a steak and an old fashion.