1968 400 Coupe, verdoro green, black vinyl top, auto 1969 GTO Judge coupe, Carousel Red, manual 1971 Trans Am, cameo white, auto 1970 Buick Skylark Custom Convertible 350-4(driver), Fire Red, white top, auto 1972 Buick GS Stage 1, Royal Blue, black vinyl top, auto
I use Global west weld on subframe connectors. They bolt on the front and are welded on the rear. I noticed a lot less roll and sway immediately after I installed them. I use Competition Engineering traction bars, they work well also. Can't speak for other brands as have not used them.
The hotchkis ones are on sale in their eBay store. There bolt in style. Think there 299.99 buy it now. I've been more than pleased with all of there products. That being said I've also have had great luck with global west
I did a lot of research and went with Global West also. They have not been installed yet.
As an engineer, I liked their reasoning for their design - they made a lot of valid points for it. They weld to the rear frame rails instead of utilizing the front leaf spring pocket bolts which they pointed out are too small to handle the loads from both the springs and the subframe connectors. They don't like the idea of welding at the front in case there is an accident and the subframe has to be removed to be replaced or straightened.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I've been running CE frame connectors ( bolt in) for at least 20 years. Have been glad they were not welded in at least a couple times. Can't say if they are better or not as good as fully welded (I suspect fully welded is as good as it gets ) but they work fine bolted in. Never had them come lose or cause any problems. My experience says bolt in. You got a welder? Are you going to have to have somebody else weld them in? Are you going to be able to take them off if you have to? Just some food for thought.
The one's from Paul/Ram Air Restorations are actually someone else's. I've forgotten whose name was on the box when it was shipped.
1968 400 Coupe, verdoro green, black vinyl top, auto 1969 GTO Judge coupe, Carousel Red, manual 1971 Trans Am, cameo white, auto 1970 Buick Skylark Custom Convertible 350-4(driver), Fire Red, white top, auto 1972 Buick GS Stage 1, Royal Blue, black vinyl top, auto
There is something to be said for having a removable connector. I put mine on before I painted. Since I painted I have had the hood slightly touching the cowl panel. Moving the hood forward caused the hood to touch the bumper bar. I've adjusted the front end as much as possible but it's still too tight. Now I will loosen the front subframe and move the whole assembly forward a half inch, even though the alignment holes in the frame and body line up, I will have to move everything forward to have the sheet metal good. I'm glad I don't have to cut the frame connector off to do it.
