Replacing an hei setup in my 68 400. Bearings were starting to make noise. Went with Mallory dist and outboard coil this time. Hook up is basic three wire pos and neg on coil and ground, which I have on firewall. My question is where the harness attaches. I have the pink wire connected to the pos on the coil. The yellow isn't connected. Same thing the purple and yellow wires. The purple one is run to the only post on the starter solenoid and the yellow isn't hooked up. Starts right up and runs fine, it's just when I started feeling wires when I first got it running, the pink wire is getting kind of hot, non of the others were. I know there's current running through it but should it get hot? Do I need to connect the yellow wire at the pos coil and the solenoid as well? I was looking at Vikki's site and checking the wiring for a 68 and it shows both wires hooked up. Do I share the post with the purple wire? Appreciate all comments.

Do you have a Unilite distributor or ?
When I installed mine I included a inline resister. I take a look to see where the pink is hooked up.
Also Mallory has a fairly good web site and I'd bet they have a schematic for your system.

Actually it's the Mallory promaster street/strip. It didn't include a ballast resistor. I emailed tech support at Mallory (phone is always busy). Waiting for them to get back to me.

Mallory's tech support is pretty helpful once they get back to you. I had issues with my Unilites burning up the expensive electronic modular until they let me in on a little secret. Hang in there.

And the secret is?

The pink/black wire is a resistor wire, when a current runs through a resistance it creates heat.

The stock ignition runs on 6-9 volts not 12 volts, does your new distributor and coil run on full 12 volts or a reduced voltage like the stock ignition. One would think there would be some type of instructions included with the parts you bought.

The pink and black wire that runs to the coil is a resistor wire that reduces the voltage from 12 volts to somewhere from 6 to 9 volts. The yellow wire running from the starter to the coil supplies 12 volts, but only when the starter is engaged, once the ignition switch is turned from start to run there is no voltage source at the yellow wire. The heavy purple wire runs to the starter and supplies 12 volts to activate the starter solenoid and thus supply 12 volts to the yellow wire. The purple wire only activates the solenoid it doesn't turn the starter, that power is supplied by the positive battery cable attached to the starter.

Having the yellow wire attached to the coil helps with starting by supplying battery voltage to the coil not the lower voltage of the pink/black wire. I would hook up the yellow wire. Maybe the pink/black wire just got hot during the start procedure?

Another question, when you ran your HEI did you power it with the pink/black wire or have a switched 12 volt source? HEIs do run on full 12 volts.

I think your on the right track Bluebird. I did notice that the pink wire was a resistor wire that says on it "Do not cut". I'll try hooking up the yellow wire but not sure it will help. The pink wire isn't hot on start up. It gets hot while runs and gets hotter in my hand till I have to shut it down. Yes, I did run my hei off of just the pink and black wire with no issue's. But to be honest, I never felt the wire during that time so not sure if it was getting hot or not. I assume is wasn't. Hopefully I hear from Mallory today. Thanks guys. I truly appreciate your input.

The secret Mallory says with the Unilites is to always install their noise filter in the wiring harness. Electrical "noise" from a typical auto electrical system (voltage spikes) will kill a Unilite module fairly quickly.

And yes you should connect the yellow wire to the starter if its OEM. Mini starters don't use the yellow wire.

You would have gotten better performance out of your HEI if you had run it on full 12 volts rather than the lower voltage from the Pink/black wire.

The yellow wire is to get 12 volts to the coil when starting, even with a mini starter one wants 12 volts to the coil when starting, then lower voltage when running, in a points type system. A lot of cars had a ballast resistor in the coil wire circuit, GM eliminated the ballast resistor and used the resistance wire in it's place.
There is a theory that the mini starters will not draw as much as a standard starter and thus not cause a voltage drop in the ignition circuit on start up, they do-it does.