I've been through everything I can thing of with this. From what I understand, the brake light switch is dependent on the turn signal harness. Fuse is not blown.
The odd thing is the turn signals, reverse and tail lights work (when you turn on the headlights). I put a voltmeters on the turn signal harness, and I have power. I tested the Brake Pedal actuator, and that cycles correctly when actuating the button. Check the wiring in the trunk to the lights. No power when braking, 12v with headlights on. There is a wire dedicated for a 3rd brake light, and that cycles properly with actuating the switch.
I cut small slits in my wiring (the heat shrink covering the connectors... not the wires), and test voltage on braking to all the lights, and no power. I am obviously missing something.
Thanks for the help!
1957 Thunderbird 289 1967 Firebird Base 461 1968 C-20 327
Power for the brake lights comes from the fuse box to the brake light switch at the brake pedal, then on to the harness connector on the steering column. From there it flows to the signal/hazard switch and out to the brake lamps. If the rear signal lights work the circuitry will be good from the signal light switch rearward. Check if you have 12 volts going to the brake switch, if yes check if you have 12 volts leaving the switch when the switch is closed. The wire going to the brake switch from the fuse box should be green, in a 68 car, and the wire leaving the brake switch going to the connector on the steering column should be white. If you have voltage entering and leaving the brake switch the problem could be a break in the wire from the switch to the harness connector, the harness connector itself or the signal/hazard switch.
Check if you have 12 volts going to the brake switch, if yes check if you have 12 volts leaving the switch when the switch is closed.
Yes and Yes.
Quote:
The wire going to the brake switch from the fuse box should be green, in a 68 car, and the wire leaving the brake switch going to the connector on the steering column should be white.
67 it is orange, but Check. I have voltage.
White wire, closed 12v open, zero volts.
Now, the hazards have never worked on this car. If the hazard switch is dead, will that cause the brake lights to no longer work? I looks like the answer is yes. Did I interpret this statement correctly?
Quote:
If you have voltage entering and leaving the brake switch the problem could be a break in the wire from the switch to the harness connector, the harness connector itself or the signal/hazard switch.
1957 Thunderbird 289 1967 Firebird Base 461 1968 C-20 327
FYI - on the '67's there are TWO separate flasher modules required to complete all the circuits. There is one on the fuse panel for the turn signals and there is a 2nd one at the end of a wire lead all by itself. The 2nd allows the emergency flashers to operate. I found this out the hard way.
I don't remember if the emergency flasher module affects the brake lights, but check it out. That flasher does light up the same elements on the tail light bulbs as the brake pedal.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
67 is wired slightly different than the 68. An orange wire leaves the fuse box and goes to the light switch and from there goes to the brake light switch. You have power leaving the brake light switch so the problem is downstream from there. Check the signal light switch connector on the steering column, where the white wire from the brake light switch connects, should have 12 volts when the brake pedal is depressed. If you have power going to the signal light switch when the brake pedal is depressed and no power going to the brake lamps, yet have power going to the lamps when the signal lights are switched on, I'd say you have an inoperative signal light switch.
Unless the brake light switch is not adjusted correctly to the pedal and the switch is not closing when the pedal is depressed.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I had a similar issue, I replaced the complete wire harness and solved my problem. I had turn signal/brake light issues with my 69 C10 Truck, and I replaced the complete wire harness on that as well and it solved the problem for me. It takes about 2 days to do a complete harness if you are up for the task, it is not very difficult, I am not an electrical engineer.
Hope this info helps or look at an other point of view.
I am still tracking this down, but I believe it's going to be something in the steering wheel circuitry. It has a Flaming River steering column. I pulled apart the guts and noticed a really mild current passing through steering column. No idea where that is from, but I am going to guess it is from improper installation or maybe the horn.
Thanks for the lesson thus far, it is really interesting to see how this circuit completes. I'll keep you posted!
Last edited by Lit3; 09/08/1611:46 AM.
1957 Thunderbird 289 1967 Firebird Base 461 1968 C-20 327
BTW - I also have a Flaming River column on my car. And your hazards never worked? All my problems went away after I figured out the 2nd light flasher was needed.
And you installed the Flaming River to "horseshoe" wiring converter at the bottom of the column to connect it to the OEM harness?
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Now, to pick your brain even further.... --Back story-- The hazards have never worked. I didn't install the column. After rewiring the whole car. stuff like the horn started working, but I had to leave the disconnected because I am was missing a few parts out of the steering wheel assembly. I popped the wheel off and started replacing bits that I ordered from Grant, and put it all back together. This is the point were the problems started. I the connector from the column goes to the painless harness.. nothing else is plugged into it.
Yes, that is the connector for a Flaming River column to an OEM wiring harness. I did not realize you had a Painless Wiring setup.
Now you are looking at an aftermarket column that you did not install connected to an aftermarket wiring system. That's a LOT of variables.
Years ago after I got my 80 Trans Am back on the road I had an electrical problem. Everytime I would hit the brakes with the high beams on, my instrument panel fuse would blow. Even in the small town I was living in at the time (south of Tucson, AZ) there was a shop that specilized in auto electrical systems. After two shop hours of investigation, they "found a problem on the backside of the fuse panel". There is no way I would have ever found that issue.
It might be time for an expert.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I am going to give flaming river a call, as well as painless. I am thinking it has to be in column for two reasons: 1. After learning some of the circuit wiring the hazards should have worked when the it was rewired. 2. It wasn't until after I started messing about with the steering wheel that this happened.
I pulled the brake switch to the pedal out off to adjust the clevis. I was getting some brake drag, and started there looking for the issue. I pulled the wheel to do this so I didn't keep hitting my head on the wheel... Because the wheel was off... Might as well throw on the replacement parts. That's when this all stopped working.
I can't thank you enough for the insight thus far. You've got me really thinking about it. I'll let you know what I find.
Thanks again, Sal! Drew
1957 Thunderbird 289 1967 Firebird Base 461 1968 C-20 327
I replaced my turn signal switch on my tilt column in my '68(not exactly a "drop in", by the way). It solved my brake light and turn signal problems. HOWEVER, the emergency flashers still do not work...unless...I depress the emergency flasher button, and activate the turn signal, either left or right.
Weird...
Also, prior to changing the turn signal switch, the horn would blow whenever it wanted to. I disconnected them. After changing the switch and re-connecting, the horn worked properly...twice...then stopped working all together.
I'm a hobbyist. Not a professional. Don't be hatin'!
I replaced my turn signal switch on my tilt column in my '68(not exactly a "drop in", by the way). It solved my brake light and turn signal problems. HOWEVER, the emergency flashers still do not work...unless...I depress the emergency flasher button, and activate the turn signal, either left or right.
Weird...
Also, prior to changing the turn signal switch, the horn would blow whenever it wanted to. I disconnected them. After changing the switch and re-connecting, the horn worked properly...twice...then stopped working all together.
I would get a new column wiring harness and pull it through.
Cant wait for summer... 68HO4004spvert Sleddog Iowa
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I replaced my turn signal switch on my tilt column in my '68(not exactly a "drop in", by the way). It solved my brake light and turn signal problems. HOWEVER, the emergency flashers still do not work...unless...I depress the emergency flasher button, and activate the turn signal, either left or right.
Weird...
Also, prior to changing the turn signal switch, the horn would blow whenever it wanted to. I disconnected them. After changing the switch and re-connecting, the horn worked properly...twice...then stopped working all together.
I would get a new column wiring harness and pull it through.
I had a little current running through my column as well.. haha. I think I found the problem.
1957 Thunderbird 289 1967 Firebird Base 461 1968 C-20 327