Hey guys,
So about 1 yr ago I decided a fun little weekend project would be to convert my 67 from 4 wheel manual brakes to a powered disc front set up (Right stuff detailing RSD-AFXDC14). Well long story short, I bought a house, and other life stuff happened, but my firebird returning to the rd has not. So I managed to install all new SS. brake lines (in retrospect I'll never get SS lines again, so hard to work with), and have everything finally near completion.

So after finally getting the master cylinder bench bled and mounted and getting all the lines bled, I'm finally ready to install the new clevis pin. The new power MC pushrod comes through the firewall and sits much lower than the initial hole for the manual brakes. My brake pedal also has another hole about 1" lower that should be for power brakes. The pushrod is still even lower than this hole. Is it okay to just attach the pushrod and clevis to the lower hole since it shouldn't be under that much tension (I'm guessing gravity is causing the pushrod to sag a bit), or do I need to drill another hole like 1.5-2" down from the original? I'm confused since the kit should have everything mount up correct and I don't want the pushrod binding, but I also don't want to get a whacky brake pedal ratio and have super sensitive brakes or the converse.

Has anyone else had issues with mounting the clevis to the lower hole? Just looking for some reassurance.

I did that same swap on my 67 from manual drum to power disc... I used the lower hole in the brake pedal and had no issues... every thing lined up pretty good... I had to slightly adjust the brake light button cause the pedal didn't spring back as far and it left my brake lights on....

X2, all the pedals I've seen have the 2 holes, upper for non-power, lower for power set-ups.

I guess I'll just stick with the lower hole instead of drilling an even lower hole. Hopefully it won't put too much tension on the pushrod. I was really hoping it would just line up perfectly, but I'll try this and if it binds I can always go back and drill another hole lower.

Did you guys set up a return spring to avoid brake drag, or was that a non-issue? I'm just trying to guess what's going to go wrong next. Seeing as the rear bleeder screw snapped, I'm just going to replace both rear cylinders, shoes, springs, and drums, and just start fresh with 100% new brake system all the way around. Well except for my brake pedal, that's the only part that won't be new. Haha

You shouldn't need a return spring, and the clevis that attaches to the pedal should be adjustable to get the optimum pedal height and angle.

I did the same thing with the same kit.... Once you get the booster bolted on, it lines up really well. Make sure you leave some play in the pedal. I adjusted mine too far out the first time, and had horrible brake drag. I had to pull the booster out and screw the clevis in 4 turns, and bolt it all back up.. Drag gone.

you should use the lower hole for power brakes. The master cylinder booster combo is on an angle. I believe the non powered master sits level...hence top hole...