I'm looking to do the body bushings and add a subframe connector.
Could anyone help me with a good company for these items?
Thanks all for there help

Depends on what type of body bushings you want. soft OEM rubber; harder, less giving polyurethane, or full-tilt solid metal. Ride harshness increases from one end to the other. Lots of different opinions on that.

I did a lot of research on subframe connectors and went with the set from Global West. The bolt in the front but weld in the back to the rear frame rails. Being an engineer, I like what they said about why they designed them that way. They pointed out the bolt on in the front allows the front subframe to be replaced if you are ever in an accident, but welding to the frame rails in the rear eliminates the issue with total bolt-on's connecting at the front pocket for the rear leaf spring which has smallish bolts that would be overstressed holding both the subframe connector and leaf spring. These connectors also tuck up pretty well without requiring cutting up the rear floor pans.

Did you noticed a difference when you put the solid bushings with the subframe on the handling of the car. Would you have pictures with connectors on your car?

Yes and no. I drove the car 1 time after putting in the rear solid bushings last winter.

A 30 mile ride south to the paint shop. The ride was definitely a tad harsher.

The paint/restoration shop had the proper ramp/rail style lift and installed the subframe connectors for me. I have not seen them yet.

I have the Global West subframe connectors on my convertible. It was a basket case when I got it, so I don't have before and after experience with them.

Sorry what you mean basket case? you regret putting them on

Needed lots of sheet metal work as well as rear frame rails replaced. It was missing the engine also, so I don't have a good before and after experience of driving with and without the subframe connectors.

does anyone else has any experience solid bushings and connectors?
Thanks all for your help

I have Global West solid body bushings and pro touring f body subframe connectors.
Here ia a pic of the front mounting.

Picture of the back mounting and showing how close they are to the floor.

My car has a nice firm feeling to it. Not overly harsh at all. I'm also running 17" rims and tires. A good portion of your give in the car is in your tires. IMHO If I was running 14-15" tires I'm sure that would affect the ride some.
Most cars over the last 30 years or so have no body bushings. They are solid.

Yup been installing solid bushings and welding in connectors in F body's for 28 years

Thank you for the good information . Is pro touring f body subframe connectors are better than globewest ?
The rear of the connector gets welded the front bolted on?

Mine are bolted front and back. They can also be welded if you like. Global West is a very good brand. I would not hesitate to use any of their products. Just make sure when and if you start altering your suspension that you build it to work together. Shocks need to match spring rates which need to match sway bars.
Not a great shot but from a side view you cannot see them.

Thank you I have globewest upper and lower Arms.
Going to do globewest ,bushing ,frame connector and koni shock .

I like the Detroit sway bar.

Thank you for the advice.

Did you drop your car?

It's been a while but I think I have a 2" drop up front and 1.5" drop in the back. I have Eaton leafs , QA1 single adjustable coilover shocks, Detroit Speed lower and upper control arms, Global West solid busgings, Pro-Touring F Body frame connectors and front sway bar. I do not have a rear sway bar. I also did the Gulstrand mod on the upper control arms. I am very happy with the ride and the handling.

Would you remember did you go with 1/2 inch or stock bushing. No rubbing issues?

I went with the standard thickness. (stock heigth)
No rubbing issues at all.

I put the Global West solid bushings, stock height, and subframe connectors on mine. Firmer ride than before but harsher as well. I'm sure I can feel every bump more now. It's worth the harshness for the firmer ride.

It may be a good Idea to lift the car off the tires and do a frame alignment check before you weld the connectors, once welded you don't want to remove them to make frame alignment adjustments.

They are visible below the car but I can only find one photograph out of many that actually shows them from any distance away.

I also agree with Robert about the tires affecting the ride harshness, the lower profile the tire the harsher it will be. Some of the large wheels with very low profile tires only have a couple or three inches of rubber/air between the wheel and the pavement requiring high air pressures. Harsher ride but also don't fold over as much on a high speed corner. I have BFGs with a 60% aspect ratio on 15 inch wheels, they seem to handle corners OK and still provide cushioning.