I had a local shop install a new stereo, speakers, subs, and amp in my '68 vert. I copied Yellowbird's installation of the rear speakers...and used the Custom Autosound head and CD changer from CI and Ames. (If interested, I'll send photos and part/model numbers).I'm VERY happy with the results. Except...

The installer connected the amp directly to the battery terminal with one of those big @$$ "monster" cables...and ran it along the heater hose to the firewall. It has a 60 amp inline fuse. I do not like the way this looks. I want to re-route this power source within the radiator support and back under the driver's side fender. Question: Can I connect this wire to that "relay" that the smaller wire from the positive battery cable connects to?

If you are running an amplifier you really NEED to have a completely seperate wire running directly from the battery to your amplifier. If you don't, you run the risk of pulling too much juice through an older, smaller wire and possibly causing a fire.

Your installer sounds like he/she knows what they are doing, but they are just used to the "bling bling" look that the kids want under the hoods nowadays. If you want to "hide" this wire, you need to either buy or splice a new length of similar (2-8) gauge wire, and go directly from the battery, between the fenders, and then in through the firewall.

Again, I would NOT use any existing power wire for any car stereo amplifier.

Thomas

I 2nd that. I have always run a separate wire straight to the battery for the amp. Of course, I have never installed an amplifier over 100 watts, so my wires weren't that large.

Next time I separate the fender from the inner wheelhouse, I will route and tie the subwoofer feed so that it is concealed within the fender. If you do this, be SURE to fuse it between the battery and the concealed area.

Another reason not to use any existing harness for a power amp is the tendency for the headlights, tail lights, and dash lights to pulse with the beat.

I'd like to see those pics!

I installed a seperate wireing harness, running wires from the head/eq in the left gutter and rca cables in the right one. To keep wiring to a minimun, I did, however, tap into the fuse block for memory. For noise reduction, I also have a closed loop ground--grounded to a OO welding cable--for all the components, rather than chassis grounds. The seperate wring harness allowed me to keep the origional harness unmolested.

The remote solenoid, trunk mounted battery eliminated the need to find a way through the firewall.

It's a little dirty because I have other issues to address. But hey, this installation was done 18 years ago this August. I also have the vented battery box removed, something that helps clean up the look.




Here's 300 watts worth stuffed in the trunk. Measure behind the seat and see what challenge goes into mounting a 12" sub behind the seat. I also have a remote 6 disc cd changer, just to the left.

Thanks to all for the input. I will keep the power cable to the 400w booster connected directly to the battery, as advised, but, will re-route to hide it.

I'll add my two cents too. I'd advise against splicing that monster cable if possible. If it becomes necessary do it inside the driver's compartment or trunk - not under the hood.

Underhood and undercarriage areas are too prone to environmental splice damage. Keep an eye on your charging system. The addition of too much audio stuff can kill your alternator.

- Jake

Since that's a heavy gauge cable carrying a lot of current, I don't trust having it concealed before the fuse. Just speaking from experience...I had the back seat of a car catch fire from a frayed, unfused wire.

If you are worried about losses due to splicing, use a gauge heavier than the circuit load requires.

Yeah, the alternator and short protection is a must-do. I have a 100 amp intergrated alternator. This is what I was told, so you can put as much creedence in it as you like. The problem with the early model intergrated alternators is that they can only accept--whatever hodegmoes that make amperage--60 amp contracptions. One of my coworkers, an alternator man, changed out the hodgemoe with a later model 100 amp contracption. He had to grind out a portion inside of the case to mif.

The 3 lines that feed the amps are fused on the solenoid terminal. The battery to alternator line, an always hot wire that runs the full lenght of the car, has fuseble links on both ends. The starter wire, hot only when energized, and the short lead from the battery are the only possible hazards, but there is no more hazard than the latent hazard in the factory design.

Another way to dress up that big a$$ power cable is to use some black split loom tubing to cover it up. You could probally take it back and ask the shop if they could do that for ya. It makes a big difference and gives it a stealth appearence;)

Dave

I have the split loom over the monster cable. Our cars never had split loom, so it's noticeable even if not obnoxious. I need to reroute mine for better concealment.

The shop did give it a good try and cover the cable with the plastic split loom cover. It just doesn't look "natural" in the engine compartment.

I've gotten the additional cable and will re-route along(under/inside) the radiator support where the factory wires run. I'll hide the fuse under or behind the battery before it enters the rad. support. On the other end, I'll solder and heat shrink the splice.