So I am nearing the end of my disc brake install and full rear end re-build. Next on my list is to overhaul the 400 & put on some performance upgrades. I have a 400 engine that is pretty much a dog right now. It will either have a stock bore or possibly .30 over. I am looking for headers, heads, cam, intake manifold, and carb. Its mostly bone stock with exception of an electronic ignition.

There seems to be a general hatred on most sites for anything Edlebrock. This is for my 67 convertible, not looking for crazy power, just good torque & tire smoking ability.

Recommendations???

Good torque and tire smoking ability can be had from factory available components.

"...Good torque and tire smoking ability can be had from factory available components..."

Only problem with that is that there are VERY few Pontiac "factory available components", still sold by GM. Therefore, the block, crank, heads, intake, & carbs, are the main factory items that can be used in a rebuild. Even if you wanna use a factory spec cam, they're cheaper from aftermarket vendors. If you want factory pistons, you're out of luck, unless you can find some nos units. You can use the cast rods, but most agree they need to be resized with ARP bolts, which probably makes forged rods a better choice.

"...There seems to be a general hatred on most sites for anything Edlebrock..."

Actually, the most "hatred" I've seen for Edelbrock stuff is for the carbs, and the older type intakes. Most also say the 2156 Performer intakes don't flow as much as a stock Q-jet intake. But, for mild street 350 & 400 engines, they work OK, under 5000rpm.

The Edlebrock Q-jets are good, & may be better for rebuilding than most factory Q-jets, since they are many years newer. Edelbrock also sells some good Pontiac cams. But, you can buy the same grinds cheaper, from other sources. Most give the Edelbrock alum heads a good grade, also. Their D-ports are the only alum heads with the exhaust heat riser holes, to work with heat crossover style intakes.

"...I am looking for headers, heads, cam, intake manifold, and carb...not looking for crazy power, just good torque & tire smoking ability...Recommendations???. "

Budget is the biggest factor here. If you wanna do this for under $5k, the recipe will be much different, than if you can spend $10k-$12k.

You'll find that opinions on engine builds will vary widely, depending on who you ask. So, the following are my own opinions, and definitely not the only way, nor intended to make max top end power.

(1) Low Budget Low Compression Build

Shortblock: Stock crank, machined as needed. RPM H-beam rods (because some engine builders say the RPM 5140 I-beams usually need resizing on the both ends, & the H-beams are stronger, lighter, & only $100 higher).

SP L2262F030(or whatever oversize is needed) forged pistons. They're heavier than other forged pistons, but are also nearly $200 cheaper. Matching SP moly rings are fine for this build.

Melling M54DS oil pump & new Melling oil pump driveshaft.

If the CR is below 9:1, I'd go with a Lunati Voodoo 256 cam, if you'll have a stock converter & 3.08 or less rear gear. With 3.23 or more gear & and a decent stall converter, I'd go with a Voodoo 262.

If the CR is above 9:1, I'd go with a Summit 2801. You could use an 068 clone, but they cost more & have less lift than the 2801.

The cheap Summit lifters will probably work OK to 5000rpm, but I'd spend a little more for the Crower Cam Saver lifters, which are advertised to splash more oil on the cam lobes. Some guys recommend the Hylift Johnson "R" lifters.

For a low compression 400, I'g go with 6x-4 heads. You can have some shaved off & get the CR into the upper half of the 8's. 5c-4 heads are almost identical, but not near as common. The '73-'74 #46 heads are very similar, but have smaller intake valves. This doesn't matter, since I'd recommend new 2.11 one piece stainless valves, along with new bronze guides, and a complete valve job, done by an experienced Pontiac head guy. Many recommend going with 1.77 exhaust valves. For a mild street engine, those are not necessary. Ferrea does not make the stock length 1.66 exhaust valves. Butler sells some which they've cut down from the 1.77's. But they are high $. SI Valves sells a lower priced 1.66.

(2) Low Budget Higher CR Build

Most recommend a max of 9.5:1 CR, for pump gas use. So, with the SP flat tops, that means you need heads with aprox 75cc chambers. I think the #62 heads are considered, by most, to be the most common big valve heads, in this size range. Others include 12, 13, 16, 48, & a few other numbers. Some of these are listed at 72cc. The chambers of each head must be measured, to know the exact size you have.

If you have 9.5 or more CR you can use a cam with more adv duration. Crower has a very good selection of Pontiac cams. The 60240 is one of the smallest, and the 60242 or 60916 is probably the biggest I'd recommend, for a mild 400 build. The 60243 would be a good choice, if you want more power over 5000rpm, & have a stall converter and say 3.42 or more rear gear. Regardless of your engine build, the tire smoking ability will increase with more rear gear & higher stall.

If I were building a mild street/strip 400, I'd consider a Summit 2802, with Rhoads Super Lube lifters. But, some can't live with the "ticking" sound of the Rhoads.

(3) Higher Priced Street 400

I'd go with lighter weight Auto-Tec pistons, with the pin location moved to achieve near zero deck height, without shaving any off the block. Auto-Tec will move the pin location, for no extra charge. The price is aprox $500 shipped. Icon also makes a good 400 flat top.

I'd definitely go with either RPM or Eagle H-beam rods.

I'd go with KRE 74cc alum D-port heads. But, if you'll be doing a lot of cold weather driving, you may prefer the 72cc Edel D-ports, with the exhaust heat riser holes.

With these heads, the Crower 60242, 60916, or similar cam, with around 220 @ .050 intake dur, would be a decent middle of the road 400 street cam. Most say you need from 6 to 10 degrees more exhaust duration, and 112-114 LSA. But, again, cam opinions differ widely.

For any of these engines, a factory Q-jet intake, is hard to beat, especially up to 5000rpm. So, with this in mind, for a high $ engine, I'd go with a factory alum Ram Air IV or 455HO alum intake. One of the aftermarket clones would be OK, IF it has been properly gasket matched. Some have been so far off, they need extra material welded on, in order to match the intake ports in the head. The Parts Place advertises a ported version. I assume it is a good unit. Have not read any reviews, one way or the other. Some like the RPM intake for a Hi-Performance 400. I don't think they are needed for under 5000rpm power.

I'd definitely go with a good, properly rebuilt Q-jet. 750cfm is plenty for a mild street 400. But, an 800cfm is OK, also. Cliff Ruggles is thought by many to be the best Q-jet builder. SMI is also highly recommended. But, I'm sure there are other competent Q-jet rebuilders. There are lots of different Q-jets. If you want a Pontiac Q-jet off a 400 Pontiac engine, you can go with a '68-'70 750cfm model. If you want a Pontiac 400 Q, with the big "smokestack" vent, you'll need a '70 Calif model, or any '71-'79 model. Keep in mind, that you'll need a hole in your air cleaner base, for the big vent. The '76-'79 models are preferred by many, because they're 800cfm & have the APT feature. If you want these features, but not the big vent, you can use a '76-'79 Olds or Buick model. If you don't mind having a side inlet, you can go with an Edelbrock Q-jet. They come in 750 & 795cfm ratings. They even made a bigger one they rated at 850cfm, tho many experts say this was over rated, and is actually only 800cfm. An electric choke is a good item for any street engine.

Well hey, I've talked(typed) long enuff. That's a few of my basic "Recommendations". I'm not a pro engine builder. But, I have built and raced quite a few 400's & 455's, and have driven & built several street Pontiacs. So, I'm not totally Pontiac ignorant. If you wanna see what the pros recommend, you can scan the PY site. The pros argue back & forth, about most every engine build question that is asked. But, you can get several different opinions to consider. I have no argument with anyone on this site or any other, who's opinions differ from mine.

I used an Edelbrock matched "kit" (cam, manifold, carb) for the Ford 302 block that was in my old F-150 pickup and have an E-brock manifold, heads and their old 1901 Q-Jet replacement carb on the 455 in my Firebird. I have been very happy with both setups. I picked up a NOS 1901 carb cheap at a swap meet as a backup.