Hey I am new to the hobby and this is my first firebird. I have taken a 67 with the straight six and swapped in a 350 with a few other mechanical upgrades. Getting close to the finish line and hoping to fire it up in the next week or so. Having some issues with wiring, setting up trans linkage, and a few other minor things. If there is anyone in the Philadelphia area, feel free to reach out.

More specifically I have power to the starter solenoid but thats about where it stops. Fuse box problem? Does anybody have a picture of a original complete fuse box? Could a faulty neutral safety switch cause this? Hooked up a battery and I have nothing, no lights, etc. with key in "on". Battery is grounded to the intake manifold and I put all new ground straps in.

So Does the engine crank over but you don't have power to ignition to fire the engine?

First: The battery should have two positive connections; one to the starter and one to the junction block on the radiator support right in front of the battery. The negative cable should also have two connections; one to the engine and one to the body next to the battery.
See: http://www.thefirstgensite.com/library/electrical/67wir/67wir2.html
and http://www.thefirstgensite.com/library/electrical/67wir/67wir1.html

Mike. welcome aboard

I'm in Fairless Hills but, I'm no expert but would be willing to help in anyway I can. I've been gathering local resources for 2 years now if you need it

send a pm if you want my contact info

bill v

On the fuse box do the male terminals labeled batt, acc, ign etc connected to anything under the dash?

Standard BAT, ACC, LPS, etc. circuits are hard wired in the fusebox. The male spade connector is just an add-on tap to get fused 12v+ of the specified function. Don't know about '67 but on my '68 they were only used by the factory for the clock option which had its own add-on wiring for the light (LPS) and 24/7 power (Bat). I assume there were other optional features that may have used them on other cars. I now also use them for power to my hidden audio lamp, power, and memory using female spade connectors. Conveniently, when the factory used the tap for the clock, they used a splitter on a short wire stub so a tap was still available.

Okay thanks. Stock without any accessories those will stay unused.

Anybody have issues with oil filter fitment on a pontiac 350 with long tube headers? Right now there is the stock housing. Can't really find a decent spot that I would like for a relocation kit.

"...Anybody have issues with oil filter fitment on a pontiac 350 with long tube headers? Right now there is the stock housing..."


There is a filter housing that angles in towards the block. And there are small oil filters that will provide more clearance. I think the most common small filter, that will work with a Pontiac, is one that fits an LS engine.

A common number is a NAPA 1042 & Wix 51042. They're only 3.4" long, and less than 3" in diameter. Of course you can pick up the NAPA at your local NAPA store. The Wix filters are sold in lots of places.

http://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/51042.html

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wix-51042

Great call on the oil filter and the wiring help. Fired right up today, just ran it for a few seconds, exhaust isn't hooked up yet!

Thanks again guys!

Mufflers are over rated anyway.I

Moving a bit farther along in the project I have noticed two leaks.

First seems minor, coolant leaking where the intake manifold meets the top of the water pump. The round gasket I put in new. Is there a better way to seal that joint up?

Second, a good amount of trans fluid is coming from the bottom of the filler tube/throttle cable area. Any thoughts/ideas?

Thanks again,
Mike

For the round gasket, I was told you loosen the intake then seat the water pump to the intake then tighten down intake. If you did that not sure what else.

Any gasket sealant or anything like that?

I believe the correct term is the coolant bypass connection on the intake manifold to the pump

Actually it is the timing cover to intake passage, and Harold is right, loosen up the intake and use the long bolt with the funky washer to draw the intake to the timing cover, I used a little bit of silicon on mine, but the surfaces on the intake and timing cover were pitted.

Black sooty water out of the exhaust? Was able to fill it with coolant today and let it run for a little, even after a minute or two the engine block got pretty hot to the touch idling in the garage. It was a pretty fast idle as well.

Tried to slow the idle down, now the engine won't fire. Also did a compression test, got everything from 120-130 psi on all cylinders dry, cold engine.